After yesterday's tough one we used the morning to regroup. Mark's drinking system pipe was blocked, we purchased soem new tubes, Chinese but maybe they'll work. Mark's one from last night has wripped the valve out and was irreplaceable.
The days ride was only 250km os we didn't have to rush and Mr Salah knew we were running late. The day time temps are scary. Today we started getting into the desert and temps got up to 44.
The Nile is a fantastic river. It's still enormous and the whole area revolves around it.
We got into Aswan in the daylight , for a change, and found a hotel with a pool. There are now other overlanders around and we ended up have supper and some beers with 2 guys going north to England and a Dutch couple doing the same as us. We've now got a much clearer picture of what to expect in the Sudan. For sure these 2 lighties are going to erect tents. They've been doing their best up till now but form here on there are no options. Watch this space. No beers and camping only for the entire Sudan, it's a big place.
Jim.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Friday 5 June
Benni Suef to Luxor.
Well that was quite a day. The sort that you have at the Epic and wonder what on earth you’re doing it for.
We started quite early; the temperature was a mild 25 and began the trek south. It didn’t take long and we got separated in bad traffic in a town and we then had a shambles before re-uniting. Bit of sense of humour failure and then we all kissed and made up.
The temperature rose steadily and for most of the day was at 40. It’s like riding with the blast from an over door in your face. Mark reckoned more like a hair dryer, show’s his feminine side.
We had planned on reaching Luxor but by 8pm were still short by about 40km. We then proceeded to break rule no. 1 of riding in Africa and pushed onto the dark. You have to understand these locals drive either with park lights or nothing and then flash bright as they approach. Mark developed a puncture and very nearly lost the bike but held it. It was now dark but very luckily there were some street lights but a very small road shoulder. We thought that a canister of foam might be the short cut repair so Justin set off to Luxor about 10km away. Mark phoned his friend Frank to be told we were wasting time so we started to pull the wheel and do it the hard way. Mark was quite good and managed to hold the torch. Shortly after we started a police man came out looking for us. The police track tourist and in some places escorted us and were worried when we failed to arrive. After a long hard job we had it done and rode into town. The first hotel took our fancy and we checked in filthy and buggered at about 10:30. Some food, a shower and lots to drink cheered us all up.
I reckon I drank about 10 litres of liquid during the day. At 8 it was still 39 degrees!
Today I’ve woken, the youngsters are catching up on a beauty sleep, to an unbelievably beautifully sight of the river. This Nile is quite a river.
Today we’ll regroup and then set off for Aswan, about 3 hours. We phoned Mr Salah and he’s expecting us late.
Jim.
Well that was quite a day. The sort that you have at the Epic and wonder what on earth you’re doing it for.
We started quite early; the temperature was a mild 25 and began the trek south. It didn’t take long and we got separated in bad traffic in a town and we then had a shambles before re-uniting. Bit of sense of humour failure and then we all kissed and made up.
The temperature rose steadily and for most of the day was at 40. It’s like riding with the blast from an over door in your face. Mark reckoned more like a hair dryer, show’s his feminine side.
We had planned on reaching Luxor but by 8pm were still short by about 40km. We then proceeded to break rule no. 1 of riding in Africa and pushed onto the dark. You have to understand these locals drive either with park lights or nothing and then flash bright as they approach. Mark developed a puncture and very nearly lost the bike but held it. It was now dark but very luckily there were some street lights but a very small road shoulder. We thought that a canister of foam might be the short cut repair so Justin set off to Luxor about 10km away. Mark phoned his friend Frank to be told we were wasting time so we started to pull the wheel and do it the hard way. Mark was quite good and managed to hold the torch. Shortly after we started a police man came out looking for us. The police track tourist and in some places escorted us and were worried when we failed to arrive. After a long hard job we had it done and rode into town. The first hotel took our fancy and we checked in filthy and buggered at about 10:30. Some food, a shower and lots to drink cheered us all up.
I reckon I drank about 10 litres of liquid during the day. At 8 it was still 39 degrees!
Today I’ve woken, the youngsters are catching up on a beauty sleep, to an unbelievably beautifully sight of the river. This Nile is quite a river.
Today we’ll regroup and then set off for Aswan, about 3 hours. We phoned Mr Salah and he’s expecting us late.
Jim.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Thursday 4 June
4 June Cairo to Beni Suef.
Well we’re finally on the road. Not without it’s share of hassles we finally got the bikes out at about 1:30. local number plates and all. After assembling the bikes we had to gas up, inflate tyres and pack. This was done on the forecourt of a filthy service station and a huge audience.
The GPS is only roughly accurate, not giving road turns etc so after doing reasonably well we ended in central Cairo traffic and threw in the towel. We hired a taxi driver to direct us onto the road south.
We’ve never actually cleared civilisation. The road follows the river and there is massive small scale agriculture on both sides. Te road is 2 lanes but shared with donkeys, carts, tractors and all other sorts of traffic it’s a bit of a nightmare. We stopped for lunch, at about 5pm, at a small place on the side of the road. After lunch a kid was run over by a motor bike going the wrong way up the 2 lane road. It looked terrible and shook us but he managed to get up. The bike didn’t stop!
Well we’re finally on the road. Not without it’s share of hassles we finally got the bikes out at about 1:30. local number plates and all. After assembling the bikes we had to gas up, inflate tyres and pack. This was done on the forecourt of a filthy service station and a huge audience.
The GPS is only roughly accurate, not giving road turns etc so after doing reasonably well we ended in central Cairo traffic and threw in the towel. We hired a taxi driver to direct us onto the road south.
We’ve never actually cleared civilisation. The road follows the river and there is massive small scale agriculture on both sides. Te road is 2 lanes but shared with donkeys, carts, tractors and all other sorts of traffic it’s a bit of a nightmare. We stopped for lunch, at about 5pm, at a small place on the side of the road. After lunch a kid was run over by a motor bike going the wrong way up the 2 lane road. It looked terrible and shook us but he managed to get up. The bike didn’t stop!
We’ve ridden about 180km today. Only 13830 km to go, and have made the town Beni Suef. It’s on the Nile and the setting is magnificent. We all agreed on a hotel and found a reasonable place for about $25.Airconditioned and a hot shower. It’s been quite a slide. The 4 seasons at $500/might, The Zaphir at $170, this at $25. It could be quire rough by the end of this curve.
We’re all very tired and dehydrated. It was 36 C at 5 pm! Despite drinking a large amount you never escape the heat.
It’s a great feeling to be on the road. We’ve spoken to the ferry man and he’s got things organised for us. He’s promised a cabin so lets wait and see. We have to go through the reverse process and de-register the bikes before boarding.
It’s now 11:30 and we’re stuffing out faces with ice-cream. This town is really moving, Lots of people out. Wonderful atmosphere.
Tomorrow’s an early start and lots of km to ride. 6 am is promised but let’s see.
Jim.
Thursday 4 June
Well perhaps today will be the day.
Had an interesting time with Said last night trying to settle our account.
He arrived during supper and presented the bill, without deducting any amount paid in SA. Then the fun started. After an late meeting at Mr Sadi senior's office and a lot of fast talking, and a bit of Portuguese double deducting accounting, we settled. We were probably still ripped off but we got $330 off the account.
Barak Obama arrives today so the pyramids are closed. Very disappointimg but we'll do some history in Luxor.
Hopefully we'll get out of here by lunchtime, but I've said that before.
Pictures aren't loading easily but I'll get them onto Picasa when I can.
Jim.
Had an interesting time with Said last night trying to settle our account.
He arrived during supper and presented the bill, without deducting any amount paid in SA. Then the fun started. After an late meeting at Mr Sadi senior's office and a lot of fast talking, and a bit of Portuguese double deducting accounting, we settled. We were probably still ripped off but we got $330 off the account.
Barak Obama arrives today so the pyramids are closed. Very disappointimg but we'll do some history in Luxor.
Hopefully we'll get out of here by lunchtime, but I've said that before.
Pictures aren't loading easily but I'll get them onto Picasa when I can.
Jim.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
day 3 Wednesday 3 June
Cairo 3 June
Well still no bikes but did lot of work today. It seems you need about 20 signatures to clear the bikes and we haven’t got them all. Today they moved from air cargo to customs and traffic control. They unloaded them by hand from the truck, then made us open the boxes and then scrutinised them. Crazy. When they asked us for the keys, which we didn’t have, we knew we were beaten. (The batteries are disconnected, fuel tanks empty and handle bars removed and they wanted us to start them)
So we came back to town, changed hotels to something more affordable, and settled in.
Mark and I headed out to see the pyramids only to find them closed. After looking at them through the fence and a fast talker offering us a ride into the desert on his horse for a sunset viewing we came home. A long tiring afternoon.
Cairo is a huge, busy dirty place. The traffic is manic, it’s a zoo and heaven knows how we’ll survive the ride out of town. Missing the pyramids was a bit disappointing. Perhaps we’ll go past on the way out or get up early and see them before we start.
Don’t ever complain about SA working hours, government etc. Here they start at 10, finish at 2 and do next to blow all in between.
Lunch today was shwarmas on the road side.
Sorry but pictures aren't working well. Will try later.
Jim
Well still no bikes but did lot of work today. It seems you need about 20 signatures to clear the bikes and we haven’t got them all. Today they moved from air cargo to customs and traffic control. They unloaded them by hand from the truck, then made us open the boxes and then scrutinised them. Crazy. When they asked us for the keys, which we didn’t have, we knew we were beaten. (The batteries are disconnected, fuel tanks empty and handle bars removed and they wanted us to start them)
So we came back to town, changed hotels to something more affordable, and settled in.
Mark and I headed out to see the pyramids only to find them closed. After looking at them through the fence and a fast talker offering us a ride into the desert on his horse for a sunset viewing we came home. A long tiring afternoon.
Cairo is a huge, busy dirty place. The traffic is manic, it’s a zoo and heaven knows how we’ll survive the ride out of town. Missing the pyramids was a bit disappointing. Perhaps we’ll go past on the way out or get up early and see them before we start.
Don’t ever complain about SA working hours, government etc. Here they start at 10, finish at 2 and do next to blow all in between.
Lunch today was shwarmas on the road side.
Sorry but pictures aren't working well. Will try later.
Jim
day 1 June 2
Day 1 2 June 2009-06-02
Following the news of Friday when my passport didn’t arrive I collected the passport at the airport in JHB without my vaccination certificate! MDS Visapak haven’t excelled with this small job. Anyway I was able to get a replacement without new injections as I had a copy. Hopefully that’s the end of the drama. Maybe bad starts make for good finishes!
I arrived in Cairo at 6 am to find Mark and Justin waiting for me. They had made good progress on Sunday and got licenses etc sorted out. We had some time to
kill as customs only opened at 9. I met Mr Said our customs agent who has been doing a great job .
Customs took most of the day. We got to see the bikes, all appear to be intact, but at 14:00 they shut shop for the day so we start again tomorrow at 9. It all appears to be going well and Said thinks we’ll be finished by 13:00 tomorrow. All being well we’re heading south immediately, perhaps a picture at the Pyramids to start.
Don’t complain too much about the government service in SA. We saw about 70 people and very few boxes moved! Nobody was rushing and they don’t believe in a paperless society. Evertything has a form! Also no cameras allowed so you wont get the inside story.
Justin took fright with Mark’s booking at the Cascades Hotel so we’re living it up at the
4 Seasons. Very luxurious overlooking the Nile, the KTM tents won’t be quite the same.
Hopefully tomorrow gets the bikes to us. We’ve heard of storys where bikes take 6 days to clear. I wouldn’t like to attempt this without a Mr Said.
Let’s see what happens.
Jim.
Following the news of Friday when my passport didn’t arrive I collected the passport at the airport in JHB without my vaccination certificate! MDS Visapak haven’t excelled with this small job. Anyway I was able to get a replacement without new injections as I had a copy. Hopefully that’s the end of the drama. Maybe bad starts make for good finishes!
I arrived in Cairo at 6 am to find Mark and Justin waiting for me. They had made good progress on Sunday and got licenses etc sorted out. We had some time to
kill as customs only opened at 9. I met Mr Said our customs agent who has been doing a great job .
Customs took most of the day. We got to see the bikes, all appear to be intact, but at 14:00 they shut shop for the day so we start again tomorrow at 9. It all appears to be going well and Said thinks we’ll be finished by 13:00 tomorrow. All being well we’re heading south immediately, perhaps a picture at the Pyramids to start.
Don’t complain too much about the government service in SA. We saw about 70 people and very few boxes moved! Nobody was rushing and they don’t believe in a paperless society. Evertything has a form! Also no cameras allowed so you wont get the inside story.
Justin took fright with Mark’s booking at the Cascades Hotel so we’re living it up at the
4 Seasons. Very luxurious overlooking the Nile, the KTM tents won’t be quite the same.
Hopefully tomorrow gets the bikes to us. We’ve heard of storys where bikes take 6 days to clear. I wouldn’t like to attempt this without a Mr Said.
Let’s see what happens.
Jim.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Sunday 31 May
Surprize, surprize. It's sunday evening and I'm still at home in Ballito.
I received a call at 16:20 friday to tell me my passport and visa were still in the Sudan embassy and wouldn't be out till monday.
To cut a long and very boring story short I blew my top, they said there was nothing they could do and we start tomorrow morning. We suspect the courier company was late and with the Super 14 final is was probably bedlam in Pretoria. No doubt the consol will tell us the true story.
Justin and Mark are in Cairo and have duly set to work. The license plates are sorted but they have to wait for me to start clearing the bikes. Hopefully it's only a day and we'll still be on schedule. We'd always planned on 3 days to clear Cairo because of all the reports of Egyptian buraucracy. At worst we'll have to push hard for Aswan. Saturday we have to start the whole process over again de-registering the bikes!
Here's holding thumbs that I'm on tomorrow's flight.
Jim.
I received a call at 16:20 friday to tell me my passport and visa were still in the Sudan embassy and wouldn't be out till monday.
To cut a long and very boring story short I blew my top, they said there was nothing they could do and we start tomorrow morning. We suspect the courier company was late and with the Super 14 final is was probably bedlam in Pretoria. No doubt the consol will tell us the true story.
Justin and Mark are in Cairo and have duly set to work. The license plates are sorted but they have to wait for me to start clearing the bikes. Hopefully it's only a day and we'll still be on schedule. We'd always planned on 3 days to clear Cairo because of all the reports of Egyptian buraucracy. At worst we'll have to push hard for Aswan. Saturday we have to start the whole process over again de-registering the bikes!
Here's holding thumbs that I'm on tomorrow's flight.
Jim.
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