Monday, June 29, 2009
Day 27 and 28 Lodwar to Nairobi
Day 27 and 28.
Well we had a nice leisurely start to Saturday in Lodwar. Used the time to regroup, fix punctures and settle in for the easy ride up to Nairobi, only 550km, good road. We even started discussing breaking the journey to enjoy the country side.
Don’t rush this is Africa.
We left Lodwar and the road lasted all of 500m then disappeared. Basically it had been worn away. There was about 5-10% tar left, incredible pot holes in between and a rut up to 1 metre deep work where the trucks run. I don’t think any maintenance has been done for 20 years. We went really slowly. It was difficult riding and we didn’t want to break the bikes. The locals gave very varied reports of how far it was. Numbers varied from 40 to 140 km. After riding for about 7 hours and covering about 210km I flatted. It was nearly dark and some villagers directed us to the local police camp where we found some reasonable grass to set up on. Also there was a stream nearby for washing in. Supper was in the village where we ate the toughest chicken ever cooked in Africa! There was more bone than meat and at tough as cat tyre. We were so buggered by that stage we ate it and went to bed.
Well Sunday dawned and we had budgeted for another 140km bad road before some improvement but miraculously we were onto reasonable tar almost immediately. The next section was very pleasant. We has started in Lodwar in semi desert, very dry and hot, but up in the highlands it was green, lush and looked very fertile. I can understand how the Brits fell in love with this place.
At Eldora the road joins up with that the road that feeds Uganda and then the proverbial hit the fan. It would appear that Uganda is fed by road, this one. Go out and kiss the nearest taxi driver and tell him he’s a saint. These bastards up here are 100 times worse. The last 200 km in to Nairobi was very frightening. There was no question of taking these trucks and taxis on. Survival was the name of the game; there was no room for error.
Anyway were now at the Jungle Junction, it is overland stop over. It’s been ideal. Clean, good beds and lots of space. Almost home from home. Last night we headed out for supper and then collapsed. Today we’ve got to service the bikes and repair some broken welds on the panniers. My front wheel is also out of shape.
We plan to head out of town tomorrow hopefully by some lesser used back roads, certainly not via Mombasa which had been on our original route.
Jim.
Well we had a nice leisurely start to Saturday in Lodwar. Used the time to regroup, fix punctures and settle in for the easy ride up to Nairobi, only 550km, good road. We even started discussing breaking the journey to enjoy the country side.
Don’t rush this is Africa.
We left Lodwar and the road lasted all of 500m then disappeared. Basically it had been worn away. There was about 5-10% tar left, incredible pot holes in between and a rut up to 1 metre deep work where the trucks run. I don’t think any maintenance has been done for 20 years. We went really slowly. It was difficult riding and we didn’t want to break the bikes. The locals gave very varied reports of how far it was. Numbers varied from 40 to 140 km. After riding for about 7 hours and covering about 210km I flatted. It was nearly dark and some villagers directed us to the local police camp where we found some reasonable grass to set up on. Also there was a stream nearby for washing in. Supper was in the village where we ate the toughest chicken ever cooked in Africa! There was more bone than meat and at tough as cat tyre. We were so buggered by that stage we ate it and went to bed.
Well Sunday dawned and we had budgeted for another 140km bad road before some improvement but miraculously we were onto reasonable tar almost immediately. The next section was very pleasant. We has started in Lodwar in semi desert, very dry and hot, but up in the highlands it was green, lush and looked very fertile. I can understand how the Brits fell in love with this place.
At Eldora the road joins up with that the road that feeds Uganda and then the proverbial hit the fan. It would appear that Uganda is fed by road, this one. Go out and kiss the nearest taxi driver and tell him he’s a saint. These bastards up here are 100 times worse. The last 200 km in to Nairobi was very frightening. There was no question of taking these trucks and taxis on. Survival was the name of the game; there was no room for error.
Anyway were now at the Jungle Junction, it is overland stop over. It’s been ideal. Clean, good beds and lots of space. Almost home from home. Last night we headed out for supper and then collapsed. Today we’ve got to service the bikes and repair some broken welds on the panniers. My front wheel is also out of shape.
We plan to head out of town tomorrow hopefully by some lesser used back roads, certainly not via Mombasa which had been on our original route.
Jim.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Day 26 Omoret to Lodwar
Well today was a huge undertaking.
It all started early with us getting the bikes across the river. This involved stripping the luggage, riding them down a steep bank to the river and then loading them one at a time onto a small rowing boat. This needs a picture tell the story.
The guys then started to row the boat over with a big wind and current Justin, who went first, was washed down stream with zero progress. Any way they then started again with more success. It took about 3 hours t5o get all 3 bikes across.
We then set off into the unknown. The GPS had no known track so we followed local advice and a dirt track. We got to a ropey police outpost and then Kenyan passport control.
Riding was very difficult with some very soft sand. I had the first proper fall in some soft sand and ended with my leg trapped under the pannier, unable to move. I was like that for about 10 minutes till the other was able to help me. It was a bit unnerving. In that heat I wonder what could have happened. There certainly isn’t much passing traffic.
The day was then a succession of punctures, falls in the sand and very tough riding.
We finally cleared the sand after about 150km and reached a tar road for the last 50km into town. We’re now in a small guest house which is quite pleasant, thatched rooms, with water and electricity. Ethiopia was starting to wear us thin.
From here it’s 500 km to Nairobi where we’ll regroup. We desperately need some washing and the bikes need an oil change.
Despite the stresses of the last 2 days we’re very happy to have come this route. At least the bikes are in one piece, which is more than we could have expected from the Isiola route. We’ll miss the views on Mt. Kenya. At this stage we don’t care.
Later. Jim
Well today was a huge undertaking.
It all started early with us getting the bikes across the river. This involved stripping the luggage, riding them down a steep bank to the river and then loading them one at a time onto a small rowing boat. This needs a picture tell the story.
The guys then started to row the boat over with a big wind and current Justin, who went first, was washed down stream with zero progress. Any way they then started again with more success. It took about 3 hours t5o get all 3 bikes across.
We then set off into the unknown. The GPS had no known track so we followed local advice and a dirt track. We got to a ropey police outpost and then Kenyan passport control.
Riding was very difficult with some very soft sand. I had the first proper fall in some soft sand and ended with my leg trapped under the pannier, unable to move. I was like that for about 10 minutes till the other was able to help me. It was a bit unnerving. In that heat I wonder what could have happened. There certainly isn’t much passing traffic.
The day was then a succession of punctures, falls in the sand and very tough riding.
We finally cleared the sand after about 150km and reached a tar road for the last 50km into town. We’re now in a small guest house which is quite pleasant, thatched rooms, with water and electricity. Ethiopia was starting to wear us thin.
From here it’s 500 km to Nairobi where we’ll regroup. We desperately need some washing and the bikes need an oil change.
Despite the stresses of the last 2 days we’re very happy to have come this route. At least the bikes are in one piece, which is more than we could have expected from the Isiola route. We’ll miss the views on Mt. Kenya. At this stage we don’t care.
Later. Jim
Day 25 Yebelo to Omaret
Day 25 Yebelo to Omaret
Well we set off early on our alternative route to the Moyale to Isiola section. The road was surprisingly good with some spectacular scenery. It was probably the best days riding we’ve had on the trip.
Punctures were the order of the day. Mark now leads 3:2 and Justin has escaped any so far.
We arrived at the Omo River and to our surprise there was a customs post. Our custo9mks document had Moyale listed as the departure poi8nt which then caused chaos with the idiot officer. He then phoned Addis, Mark begged, Justin offered a bribe and the result is now holed up for the night and will only get cleared tomorrow at 8.
We’re camped on the banks of the river which is about 400m wider. We’re going to have to manhandle the bikes into a small boat. The bank is quite high so it could be interesting.
We’re now off to supper in the village- it could be interesting. Hopefully the beers are cold.
Later.
Well we set off early on our alternative route to the Moyale to Isiola section. The road was surprisingly good with some spectacular scenery. It was probably the best days riding we’ve had on the trip.
Punctures were the order of the day. Mark now leads 3:2 and Justin has escaped any so far.
We arrived at the Omo River and to our surprise there was a customs post. Our custo9mks document had Moyale listed as the departure poi8nt which then caused chaos with the idiot officer. He then phoned Addis, Mark begged, Justin offered a bribe and the result is now holed up for the night and will only get cleared tomorrow at 8.
We’re camped on the banks of the river which is about 400m wider. We’re going to have to manhandle the bikes into a small boat. The bank is quite high so it could be interesting.
We’re now off to supper in the village- it could be interesting. Hopefully the beers are cold.
Later.
Day 21 kembolche to Addis
Day 21 Kembolche to Addis
Well after yesterday’s grump we all cheered up a bit and got cracking quite early. We weren’t sorry to leave Kembolche, it really is a hole.
The road south was quite good and we only had 380km to Addis so we didn’t have to rush. The Chinese are building a lot of new roads and when they’re finished travelling will be very easy. Lunch was in a small town after about 200km and finally our phones started to work.
Shortly after lunch, on a rough stretch, I punctured. The change was quite quick but some SOB pinched my dark glasses. Apparently I got close to being arrested for threatened violence. It didn’t work; I still didn’t get them back.
We’re now in Addis in Wim’s Holland House, a backpacker/over Lander establishment with some a reputation for beer and ‘Bitter Ballen’, a traditional Dutch food. Hell after hearing about them 5000km ago in Cairo we finally sampled them. very good. Helped down with lots of beer! It wasn’t long and everybody was in fine form again.
Tuesday:
We hit the town last night. We’d heard that there were 5 over landers with bikes staying at the Sheraton and we discovered it was the 3Boysonbikes team. They had taken massive strain on the Isiola to Moyale stretch, 3 broken shock absorbers, a bad crash etc.
They’re now waiting for the spares to arrive and 1 one of their team to catch up who couldn’t get into Ethiopia without a passport.
M and J were ready to wreck the town and we were with a retired Shell employee, who has an Ethiopian wife and spends time here and in Scotland, and he took us to some night spot. Anyway we didn’t last too long before retiring.
We’ve now ridden 4900 km and on checking my itinerary I see we’re only a day behind schedule.
The next decision we must take is the route out of Ethiopia. The usual way is Isiola to Moyale, a 500km hell run that breaks equipment and people. You normally budget 3 days but even then it’s extremely tough. There is another route, which we had considered, via a track which detours down via Lake Turkana into Kenya, also about 500km but equally tough and no border crossing point so the potential for some hassles with passports and carnets. Yesterday we found 2 other routes one of which looks very appealing via the Olmo valley, across the river feeding lake Turkana by canoe and then onto a new road, apparently under construction, on the west bank and down to Nairobi. It might be longer but quite frankly anything is better than Moyale road.
We’ve decided to take today off to regroup so we’ll head out of here tomorrow.
Later, Jim.
Well after yesterday’s grump we all cheered up a bit and got cracking quite early. We weren’t sorry to leave Kembolche, it really is a hole.
The road south was quite good and we only had 380km to Addis so we didn’t have to rush. The Chinese are building a lot of new roads and when they’re finished travelling will be very easy. Lunch was in a small town after about 200km and finally our phones started to work.
Shortly after lunch, on a rough stretch, I punctured. The change was quite quick but some SOB pinched my dark glasses. Apparently I got close to being arrested for threatened violence. It didn’t work; I still didn’t get them back.
We’re now in Addis in Wim’s Holland House, a backpacker/over Lander establishment with some a reputation for beer and ‘Bitter Ballen’, a traditional Dutch food. Hell after hearing about them 5000km ago in Cairo we finally sampled them. very good. Helped down with lots of beer! It wasn’t long and everybody was in fine form again.
Tuesday:
We hit the town last night. We’d heard that there were 5 over landers with bikes staying at the Sheraton and we discovered it was the 3Boysonbikes team. They had taken massive strain on the Isiola to Moyale stretch, 3 broken shock absorbers, a bad crash etc.
They’re now waiting for the spares to arrive and 1 one of their team to catch up who couldn’t get into Ethiopia without a passport.
M and J were ready to wreck the town and we were with a retired Shell employee, who has an Ethiopian wife and spends time here and in Scotland, and he took us to some night spot. Anyway we didn’t last too long before retiring.
We’ve now ridden 4900 km and on checking my itinerary I see we’re only a day behind schedule.
The next decision we must take is the route out of Ethiopia. The usual way is Isiola to Moyale, a 500km hell run that breaks equipment and people. You normally budget 3 days but even then it’s extremely tough. There is another route, which we had considered, via a track which detours down via Lake Turkana into Kenya, also about 500km but equally tough and no border crossing point so the potential for some hassles with passports and carnets. Yesterday we found 2 other routes one of which looks very appealing via the Olmo valley, across the river feeding lake Turkana by canoe and then onto a new road, apparently under construction, on the west bank and down to Nairobi. It might be longer but quite frankly anything is better than Moyale road.
We’ve decided to take today off to regroup so we’ll head out of here tomorrow.
Later, Jim.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Day 20 lalibele to Kembolche
Day 20 at Lalibele and to Kembolche.
We had a fantastic day at Lalibele and it exceeded our wildest dreams.
We visited all 11 churches that are hewn out of solid rock; some are 20m deep and date back to 1100 ad. They are quite remarkable when one considers that they were all built in 23 years and show the most remarkable detail. Even the pictures don’t adequately reflect the vast scale of what was created.
We departed at midday and arrives Kembolche at 7 as it was getting dark. We had 40km of dirt and then onto a new black top road the Chinese are building. After yesterday’s slog it made for much easier riding.
We are now out of sight seeing mode and now need to get out of Ethiopia. We should get to Addis tomorrow and then 2 days later the border.
Justin had his phone pinched yesterday and his wallet today. Not sure how this happened but he’s we’re all a bit bleak and feeling a bit shattered. A bit of a mystery as to how and when it happened. Also this hotel is a dump with no electricity, fortunately a generator, and no running water.
There are no electronic banking facilities in Ethiopia so we’re a bit stressed about the cash situation down to Nairobi. It should be alright provided nothing more goes wrong.
My bike is still overheating, but intermittently, and also a worry.
We’re all bushed so I’ll do more in the morning before we leave.
Jim.
We had a fantastic day at Lalibele and it exceeded our wildest dreams.
We visited all 11 churches that are hewn out of solid rock; some are 20m deep and date back to 1100 ad. They are quite remarkable when one considers that they were all built in 23 years and show the most remarkable detail. Even the pictures don’t adequately reflect the vast scale of what was created.
We departed at midday and arrives Kembolche at 7 as it was getting dark. We had 40km of dirt and then onto a new black top road the Chinese are building. After yesterday’s slog it made for much easier riding.
We are now out of sight seeing mode and now need to get out of Ethiopia. We should get to Addis tomorrow and then 2 days later the border.
Justin had his phone pinched yesterday and his wallet today. Not sure how this happened but he’s we’re all a bit bleak and feeling a bit shattered. A bit of a mystery as to how and when it happened. Also this hotel is a dump with no electricity, fortunately a generator, and no running water.
There are no electronic banking facilities in Ethiopia so we’re a bit stressed about the cash situation down to Nairobi. It should be alright provided nothing more goes wrong.
My bike is still overheating, but intermittently, and also a worry.
We’re all bushed so I’ll do more in the morning before we leave.
Jim.
Day 19 Mekele to Lalibele
Day 19 Mekele to Lalibele
We managed to get going at a reasonable time today and headed out of town on the tar. Unfortunately Bartholomew Dias, the Portuguese navigator made a balls up with his GPS and took us in the wrong direction! His ancestor found Africa with a compass and he couldn't get us to Maychew. So a quick back track was called for and we set of towards Lalibele.
The initial 120 km was good going on tar which included some fantastic passes with switch backs, really high and very little traffic. After that we turned onto the dirt. The map measured 40km, we estimated it at 70 and in fact it was 171! Today was quite the hardest day we’ve had. The road was treacherously slippery with some very steep grades. The best news we’ve had all day is that we don’t have to backtrack as expected and only have 64km dirt before we join the tar.
After 40km I had another overheating problem. I don’t know the reason but it’s getting a bit worrying. At one stage I had serious reservations about coming so far away form civilisation. Anyway we filled and bled the system and it all now looks ok.
We’ve in Lalibele, which has 11 churches hewn out of rock. They are reputed to be the highlight of any visit to Ethiopia. We hope so after the effort to get here.
It seems that the population of Ethiopia all walk in the road. That includes donkeys, sheep etc. We’ve had some very near misses. It becomes really tedious, we’re all hooting like the locals and nobody worries. Today was worse than normal; as all the villagers go to market in the nearest town, the quantity of people out was unbelievable.
We’re now off to look for a dstv dish to watch the rugby. We’ve been totally out of touch and don’t even know the teams.
Later.
Well we got to watch the game. It was a delayed broadcast, in a shack behind a house, with a generator going, which we had to pay for. To start off they had to tune the dish which involved much shouting down a human chain as the dish was about 30m away from the set. It was all very amusing. The atmosphere at the ground looked fantastic.
It’s now early Sunday morning and we’re off to church, that should bring a cheer from some readers back home!
Later Jim.
We managed to get going at a reasonable time today and headed out of town on the tar. Unfortunately Bartholomew Dias, the Portuguese navigator made a balls up with his GPS and took us in the wrong direction! His ancestor found Africa with a compass and he couldn't get us to Maychew. So a quick back track was called for and we set of towards Lalibele.
The initial 120 km was good going on tar which included some fantastic passes with switch backs, really high and very little traffic. After that we turned onto the dirt. The map measured 40km, we estimated it at 70 and in fact it was 171! Today was quite the hardest day we’ve had. The road was treacherously slippery with some very steep grades. The best news we’ve had all day is that we don’t have to backtrack as expected and only have 64km dirt before we join the tar.
After 40km I had another overheating problem. I don’t know the reason but it’s getting a bit worrying. At one stage I had serious reservations about coming so far away form civilisation. Anyway we filled and bled the system and it all now looks ok.
We’ve in Lalibele, which has 11 churches hewn out of rock. They are reputed to be the highlight of any visit to Ethiopia. We hope so after the effort to get here.
It seems that the population of Ethiopia all walk in the road. That includes donkeys, sheep etc. We’ve had some very near misses. It becomes really tedious, we’re all hooting like the locals and nobody worries. Today was worse than normal; as all the villagers go to market in the nearest town, the quantity of people out was unbelievable.
We’re now off to look for a dstv dish to watch the rugby. We’ve been totally out of touch and don’t even know the teams.
Later.
Well we got to watch the game. It was a delayed broadcast, in a shack behind a house, with a generator going, which we had to pay for. To start off they had to tune the dish which involved much shouting down a human chain as the dish was about 30m away from the set. It was all very amusing. The atmosphere at the ground looked fantastic.
It’s now early Sunday morning and we’re off to church, that should bring a cheer from some readers back home!
Later Jim.
Day 18
Day 18 Around Aksum and to Mekele.
We had a slow start and then headed out to the underground tombs and obelisks. It all dates back to 200AD and some of it only very recently discovered. Again like the pyramids in Cairo these great chunk of granite, some 23 m tall, were brought in and erected.
The ride to Mekele passed quite close to an ancient hilltop monastry called Abre Dom so we stopped off to have a look. It was easy to find but not so easy to get in. The door is 25m up a vertical cliff face. We had to climb up with the aid of a home made rope and a safety harness made of animal hide. At the top was an ancient old man who was doing the pulling. It was easily the most scary part of the trip to date. Also they way out was the same as the way in.
We’re now in Mekele and hopefully head to Lalibele tomorrow. It’s our last stop off before Addis but unfortunately 175km off the main road. It should be worth the effort to get there.
Still have difficulties with internet connections but I am trying.
Jim
We had a slow start and then headed out to the underground tombs and obelisks. It all dates back to 200AD and some of it only very recently discovered. Again like the pyramids in Cairo these great chunk of granite, some 23 m tall, were brought in and erected.
The ride to Mekele passed quite close to an ancient hilltop monastry called Abre Dom so we stopped off to have a look. It was easy to find but not so easy to get in. The door is 25m up a vertical cliff face. We had to climb up with the aid of a home made rope and a safety harness made of animal hide. At the top was an ancient old man who was doing the pulling. It was easily the most scary part of the trip to date. Also they way out was the same as the way in.
We’re now in Mekele and hopefully head to Lalibele tomorrow. It’s our last stop off before Addis but unfortunately 175km off the main road. It should be worth the effort to get there.
Still have difficulties with internet connections but I am trying.
Jim
Day 18
Day 18 Around Aksum and to Mekele.
We had a slow start and then headed out to the underground tombs and obelisks. It all dates back to 200AD and some of it only very recently discovered. Again like the pyramids in Cairo these great chunk of granite, some 23 m tall, were brought in and erected.
The ride to Mekele passed quite close to an ancient hilltop monastry called Abre Dom so we stopped off to have a look. It was easy to find but not so easy to get in. The door is 25m up a vertical cliff face. We had to climb up with the aid of a home made rope and a safety harness made of animal hide. At the top was an ancient old man who was doing the pulling. It was easily the most scary part of the trip to date. Also they way out was the same as the way in.
We’re now in Mekele and hopefully head to Lalibele tomorrow. It’s our last stop off before Addis but unfortunately 175km off the main road. It should be worth the effort to get there.
Still have difficulties with internet connections but I am trying.
Jim
We had a slow start and then headed out to the underground tombs and obelisks. It all dates back to 200AD and some of it only very recently discovered. Again like the pyramids in Cairo these great chunk of granite, some 23 m tall, were brought in and erected.
The ride to Mekele passed quite close to an ancient hilltop monastry called Abre Dom so we stopped off to have a look. It was easy to find but not so easy to get in. The door is 25m up a vertical cliff face. We had to climb up with the aid of a home made rope and a safety harness made of animal hide. At the top was an ancient old man who was doing the pulling. It was easily the most scary part of the trip to date. Also they way out was the same as the way in.
We’re now in Mekele and hopefully head to Lalibele tomorrow. It’s our last stop off before Addis but unfortunately 175km off the main road. It should be worth the effort to get there.
Still have difficulties with internet connections but I am trying.
Jim
Day 17
Day 17 Simian Park to Axum,
Well I woke up on my birthday missing my family like crazy. It felt very strange to be on the other side of the world and not even able to phone. I wasn’t offered breakfast in bed by these two jackasses, they don’t even like waking up!
It was a beautiful sight from the top of the mountains. Unfortunately a bit hazy so the pictures don’t do it justice.
We left to return to Debark to collect the balance of our luggage and to deposit our guard. Justin had him pillion but the guy wasn’t scared, apparently he sang the whole way and buried his rifle into J’s kidneys. We saw some ‘Bleeding heart’ or galatis Baboon on the way down.
We had thought the 250km form Debark to Axum would be a breeze. Well a big mistake. We dropped off an enormous plateau into a series of unbelievable valleys and mountain passes, all gravel and very slippery. I estimate we dropped 2500m in 50km. That’s like 1.5 x JHB to Durban before Heidelberg. The views were unbelievable but it took a lot of riding. After lunch my bike started to overheat, going down hill. We stopped to let it cool, checked the water levels, and started again but without luck. So we were on the sat phone to Eric at Umhlanga again. We stripped the bike, bled the water pump and we were on the way again. We were stopped on a very steep gravel road, not Mark’s idea of paradise for camping the night!
Shortly thereafter I dropped my bike by skidding to avoid a cow but fortunately no damage to me or the cow. I was having an eventful birthday.
We were very keen to get the contaminated fuel out of our bikes so ran them close to empty before filling again. At this stage we found we hadn’t resealed the tanks properly after stripping the fuel pumps. We only noticed leaks a km later by which time Justin had hit a centre island and totalled his luggage system. He didn’t fall but has done a lot of damage and will have to find a welder today.
Mark and I will visit the underground tombs and other heritage sites whilst he gets the damage repaired and then we‘re off to Makele. At least the roads improve a bit form here on. We’re now 1300km form Addis at the very north of the country, about 70km from the border with Eritea. e start heading south again now.
The load shedding here is very disruptive. Because of the lack of rain they can’t run the hydro electric schemes so half the country is turned off at a time. Today is Axum’s turn for power so I might be able to post to the blog and do some phoning.
Well I woke up on my birthday missing my family like crazy. It felt very strange to be on the other side of the world and not even able to phone. I wasn’t offered breakfast in bed by these two jackasses, they don’t even like waking up!
It was a beautiful sight from the top of the mountains. Unfortunately a bit hazy so the pictures don’t do it justice.
We left to return to Debark to collect the balance of our luggage and to deposit our guard. Justin had him pillion but the guy wasn’t scared, apparently he sang the whole way and buried his rifle into J’s kidneys. We saw some ‘Bleeding heart’ or galatis Baboon on the way down.
We had thought the 250km form Debark to Axum would be a breeze. Well a big mistake. We dropped off an enormous plateau into a series of unbelievable valleys and mountain passes, all gravel and very slippery. I estimate we dropped 2500m in 50km. That’s like 1.5 x JHB to Durban before Heidelberg. The views were unbelievable but it took a lot of riding. After lunch my bike started to overheat, going down hill. We stopped to let it cool, checked the water levels, and started again but without luck. So we were on the sat phone to Eric at Umhlanga again. We stripped the bike, bled the water pump and we were on the way again. We were stopped on a very steep gravel road, not Mark’s idea of paradise for camping the night!
Shortly thereafter I dropped my bike by skidding to avoid a cow but fortunately no damage to me or the cow. I was having an eventful birthday.
We were very keen to get the contaminated fuel out of our bikes so ran them close to empty before filling again. At this stage we found we hadn’t resealed the tanks properly after stripping the fuel pumps. We only noticed leaks a km later by which time Justin had hit a centre island and totalled his luggage system. He didn’t fall but has done a lot of damage and will have to find a welder today.
Mark and I will visit the underground tombs and other heritage sites whilst he gets the damage repaired and then we‘re off to Makele. At least the roads improve a bit form here on. We’re now 1300km form Addis at the very north of the country, about 70km from the border with Eritea. e start heading south again now.
The load shedding here is very disruptive. Because of the lack of rain they can’t run the hydro electric schemes so half the country is turned off at a time. Today is Axum’s turn for power so I might be able to post to the blog and do some phoning.
day 16 and 17
Day 16 and 17 Bahir Da and back past Gonder and to the Simian Mountains...
We had a day of sight seeing in Bahir Da which involved going out on a boat to see the monasteries, which date back to1320, and include some amazing illustrated manuscripts, the Nile where it flows out of the lake and some Hippos.
We then had to retrace our steps to Gonder, where we refuelled and then pushed on towards the Simian Mountain Park on a gravel road. Close to dark we stopped to discover that Mark had had his wallet nicked at the last fuel stop, including about $300, and all his credit cards. At this stage Justin elected to head off towards the nearest hotel and Mark and I found a camp site next to a kraal. After lots of confused negotiating we bedded down for the night. In the morning we woke to find 4 guys armed with AK 47’s outside our tents. No problem they were just the local watchmen. The whole time we camped we had an audience; the locals just sit and stare. I’m sure they can’t believe what’s going on. When it was time to leave I couldn’t start my bike, it was absolutely dead. I had been having some problems especially when it was cold but it usually settled down and once or twice it cut out on me at speed. After a lot of trying it finally got going and we set off but stopped in the first town to draw some cash. When it was time to go my bike refused to start. Justin had the satellite phone so Mark set off the find him and I started to strip everything. At this stage had an audience of about 25 and one very willing mechanic who had fast fingers and couldn’t resist the urge to help. After many calls to BMW Umhlanga and inter changing parts from Mark’s bike, by the way Justin’s bike had also failed with the same problem, we established that it was either the fuel pump or a blocked filter. Fortunately we were near to a compressor and after blowing everything clear we got things going. 5 Hours later we set off again. We then had to do the same to Justin’s bike but this time it was a whole lot quicker.
We’re now on top of the Simian Mountains in a small park. There’s a hut of sorts here and we might sleep in it or pitch tents. We’re now at about 3750m and it’s getting quite cold. Boy what a change from the Sudan!
Mark was given the job of lifting the compulsory armed guard. It was a really steel road so he did well to get them both here in one piece.
Ethiopia is starting to produce the experiences that we thought this trip would be about. The ride from Cairo to Gonder was mostly on tar roads, quite frankly you could do it in a Citi Golf. In a year it probably will be all tar. We had ridden very big distances and it was all a bit rushed. We’re ahead of schedule on account of some conservative estimates I had made so we’ve now got the time to explore. From here we loop around the top of the country before heading south towards Addis. On the way we’ll stop at Lalibele, the churches hewn out of rock.
We had a day of sight seeing in Bahir Da which involved going out on a boat to see the monasteries, which date back to1320, and include some amazing illustrated manuscripts, the Nile where it flows out of the lake and some Hippos.
We then had to retrace our steps to Gonder, where we refuelled and then pushed on towards the Simian Mountain Park on a gravel road. Close to dark we stopped to discover that Mark had had his wallet nicked at the last fuel stop, including about $300, and all his credit cards. At this stage Justin elected to head off towards the nearest hotel and Mark and I found a camp site next to a kraal. After lots of confused negotiating we bedded down for the night. In the morning we woke to find 4 guys armed with AK 47’s outside our tents. No problem they were just the local watchmen. The whole time we camped we had an audience; the locals just sit and stare. I’m sure they can’t believe what’s going on. When it was time to leave I couldn’t start my bike, it was absolutely dead. I had been having some problems especially when it was cold but it usually settled down and once or twice it cut out on me at speed. After a lot of trying it finally got going and we set off but stopped in the first town to draw some cash. When it was time to go my bike refused to start. Justin had the satellite phone so Mark set off the find him and I started to strip everything. At this stage had an audience of about 25 and one very willing mechanic who had fast fingers and couldn’t resist the urge to help. After many calls to BMW Umhlanga and inter changing parts from Mark’s bike, by the way Justin’s bike had also failed with the same problem, we established that it was either the fuel pump or a blocked filter. Fortunately we were near to a compressor and after blowing everything clear we got things going. 5 Hours later we set off again. We then had to do the same to Justin’s bike but this time it was a whole lot quicker.
We’re now on top of the Simian Mountains in a small park. There’s a hut of sorts here and we might sleep in it or pitch tents. We’re now at about 3750m and it’s getting quite cold. Boy what a change from the Sudan!
Mark was given the job of lifting the compulsory armed guard. It was a really steel road so he did well to get them both here in one piece.
Ethiopia is starting to produce the experiences that we thought this trip would be about. The ride from Cairo to Gonder was mostly on tar roads, quite frankly you could do it in a Citi Golf. In a year it probably will be all tar. We had ridden very big distances and it was all a bit rushed. We’re ahead of schedule on account of some conservative estimates I had made so we’ve now got the time to explore. From here we loop around the top of the country before heading south towards Addis. On the way we’ll stop at Lalibele, the churches hewn out of rock.
day 15
Day 15 around Gonder and to Bahir Dir
Gonder is an amazing place. In part it’s just another busy little town, with masses of people, and the usual crime and refuse. However it has history going back to 1620 when a dynasty built a group of castles, a church and some baths. The castle sits on top of the hill above the town and has is a world heritage site. The Brits did there best to destroy it during WW 2 when the Italians were in occupation. The church was one of 44; the other 43 were destroyed in an attack by a group from Sudan, and is still used to this day. In fact there was a funeral in progress when we were there. There are beautiful frescoes on the walls and ceilings. The baths are filled each year in January when there is an annual festival.
Justin has been down with a bug so slacked out for the morning.
We left for Bahir Dir about 160km towards Addis, but the wrong direction for us, on Lake Tana which is the source of the Blue Nile. The road was black ytop the whole way with some quite steep passes. There are amazing fingers of rock, quite isolated, in different shapes.
Bahir Dir has many monasteries built on islands which we’ll have a look at tomorrow. Fuel has been a bit of a problem. It seems the whole of Ethiopia is in a power crisis. None of the towns have power during the day so no fuel. We’ve had to buy at black market prices to get here. Also no lights, coffee, washing, water, internet cafes etc etc.
Gonder is an amazing place. In part it’s just another busy little town, with masses of people, and the usual crime and refuse. However it has history going back to 1620 when a dynasty built a group of castles, a church and some baths. The castle sits on top of the hill above the town and has is a world heritage site. The Brits did there best to destroy it during WW 2 when the Italians were in occupation. The church was one of 44; the other 43 were destroyed in an attack by a group from Sudan, and is still used to this day. In fact there was a funeral in progress when we were there. There are beautiful frescoes on the walls and ceilings. The baths are filled each year in January when there is an annual festival.
Justin has been down with a bug so slacked out for the morning.
We left for Bahir Dir about 160km towards Addis, but the wrong direction for us, on Lake Tana which is the source of the Blue Nile. The road was black ytop the whole way with some quite steep passes. There are amazing fingers of rock, quite isolated, in different shapes.
Bahir Dir has many monasteries built on islands which we’ll have a look at tomorrow. Fuel has been a bit of a problem. It seems the whole of Ethiopia is in a power crisis. None of the towns have power during the day so no fuel. We’ve had to buy at black market prices to get here. Also no lights, coffee, washing, water, internet cafes etc etc.
day 14
Day 14 to Gonder.
Well we had a fun time of leaving our camp. We were camped about 100m off the road but it was incredibly soft and slippery, the rain of last night having wet the top surface properly. Any way they sent me first, thinking that I would hash it and they could rescue me, but it backfired and the opposite happened. It took about an hour to get the 2 bikes clear and onto the road. Our first gym session.
The ride up to Gonder was very different to anything we’ve had so far. There is lots of road construction taking place and about half the road was black top, the remainder good gravel. With some steep passes it gave us some fun riding.
Ethiopia is very different from the Sudan. There are people everywhere and they get quite in your face. Also there were thousands of head of cattle being herded along the ride. Together with donkey carts, people etc you have to be wide awake. Not many cars but a lot of big trucks. Judging from the debris along the road trucks crash regularly.
Temperatures have decreased and we spent most of the day between 25 and 30. It is quite a relief to escape what we had along the Nile.
We’re now in a small pension. Not much of a place but adequate. The water in town has been off for a few days so there has been considerable whining from our 2 intrepid campers. Mark keeps on about the mud on his R1000 Nike shoes from last night. Check pic.
We’ve got plans to go to Lake Tana tomorrow before heading north to the Simian Mountains.
Later. Jim
Well we had a fun time of leaving our camp. We were camped about 100m off the road but it was incredibly soft and slippery, the rain of last night having wet the top surface properly. Any way they sent me first, thinking that I would hash it and they could rescue me, but it backfired and the opposite happened. It took about an hour to get the 2 bikes clear and onto the road. Our first gym session.
The ride up to Gonder was very different to anything we’ve had so far. There is lots of road construction taking place and about half the road was black top, the remainder good gravel. With some steep passes it gave us some fun riding.
Ethiopia is very different from the Sudan. There are people everywhere and they get quite in your face. Also there were thousands of head of cattle being herded along the ride. Together with donkey carts, people etc you have to be wide awake. Not many cars but a lot of big trucks. Judging from the debris along the road trucks crash regularly.
Temperatures have decreased and we spent most of the day between 25 and 30. It is quite a relief to escape what we had along the Nile.
We’re now in a small pension. Not much of a place but adequate. The water in town has been off for a few days so there has been considerable whining from our 2 intrepid campers. Mark keeps on about the mud on his R1000 Nike shoes from last night. Check pic.
We’ve got plans to go to Lake Tana tomorrow before heading north to the Simian Mountains.
Later. Jim
Friday, June 19, 2009
day 12
Day 12 in Khartoum
The Hotel Sahara isn’t much to write home about. Whilst the rooms were air conditioned, in a manner of speaking, the hotel was a decaying relic of previous splendour perhaps of 50 years ago. In think we were the only guests. We were so tired it didn’t matter. Mark complained, in fact he screamed, when 2 cockroaches, the size of small Poodles brushed against his leg, He then found then the next morning sitting on is tooth brush. He didn’t know they survive on a diet of sh!t.
We walked around the city starting at the Blue Nile sailing Club which is supposed to be the over Landers preferred camp site but it was deserted. We found Khartoum to be an oppressively hot place with very little attraction. There are signs of previous Colonial grandeur, lots of old building and wide tree lines avenues, but it’s all decaying now. The Blue and White Niles join in the city and divide it into 2 halves. Omdurman is the more vibrant and heavily populated section.
We had some supper at a road side restaurant and got chatting to a Chinese oil driller. He spends 4 months of the year drilling. He didn’t seem to like the place any more than we did.
The Hotel Sahara isn’t much to write home about. Whilst the rooms were air conditioned, in a manner of speaking, the hotel was a decaying relic of previous splendour perhaps of 50 years ago. In think we were the only guests. We were so tired it didn’t matter. Mark complained, in fact he screamed, when 2 cockroaches, the size of small Poodles brushed against his leg, He then found then the next morning sitting on is tooth brush. He didn’t know they survive on a diet of sh!t.
We walked around the city starting at the Blue Nile sailing Club which is supposed to be the over Landers preferred camp site but it was deserted. We found Khartoum to be an oppressively hot place with very little attraction. There are signs of previous Colonial grandeur, lots of old building and wide tree lines avenues, but it’s all decaying now. The Blue and White Niles join in the city and divide it into 2 halves. Omdurman is the more vibrant and heavily populated section.
We had some supper at a road side restaurant and got chatting to a Chinese oil driller. He spends 4 months of the year drilling. He didn’t seem to like the place any more than we did.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Caution Caution
After a slow start Mark has learn't how to use the blog. Don't allow your children access.
jim interupted
Finally I get to say a word or two - I have been reading Jim's account of the trip thus far - and I must say for a man who was born during the advent of the abacus he is doing a sterling job. He has lost one pair of spectacles and is now operating with a pair of "over the counter glasses" that are missing one lens. It has not taken him long to look like a local with his one eye closed staring blankly at the computer screen. Khartoum is a hot festering toilet - the heat induces pondo feaver the instant you step out of the air con comfort of the hotel room.We are steadying up after a ridiculous day on the bike yesterday which saw us cross half the country in heat that can only be compared to a hairdryer "on highest setting" blowing for hours into your face. No bullshit. Our hotel "The Sahara" is better than camping - I was eaten alive next to the Nile by insects that were so small they could not be seen let alone killed.. Justins imported Mozzie spray seemed to encourage their appetite. Justin has vowed not to let us camp again - making a lot of sense.
The desert and Egypt are behind us and I must say not the sort of place you can spend too much time. I guess summer in the desert is a pretty hard place and the rally suits we ride in might add to safety but they are pretty stifling. Ethiopia is down the drag and offers cold beers (unavailable in Sudan) and a cooler climate which will be most welcome.
The team is in good spirits and the machines are running sweetly. The budget is getting severly dented by Justin and me continuously trying to find nice hotels - Jim is out voted and never seems too upset to find a clean loo and pillow. Why suffer unneccesarily ; we know we are tough so why have to prove it.
Thoughts from North Africa:
Running shoes and yoga charts don't get used . The goat / camel has been tasty. Coke tastes better at 44 degrees. Never take your toilet for granted or wear flip flops to an eastern toilet.
This is Marky Sparky signing off from "ourbucketlist" - Khartoum
The desert and Egypt are behind us and I must say not the sort of place you can spend too much time. I guess summer in the desert is a pretty hard place and the rally suits we ride in might add to safety but they are pretty stifling. Ethiopia is down the drag and offers cold beers (unavailable in Sudan) and a cooler climate which will be most welcome.
The team is in good spirits and the machines are running sweetly. The budget is getting severly dented by Justin and me continuously trying to find nice hotels - Jim is out voted and never seems too upset to find a clean loo and pillow. Why suffer unneccesarily ; we know we are tough so why have to prove it.
Thoughts from North Africa:
Running shoes and yoga charts don't get used . The goat / camel has been tasty. Coke tastes better at 44 degrees. Never take your toilet for granted or wear flip flops to an eastern toilet.
This is Marky Sparky signing off from "ourbucketlist" - Khartoum
Day 11 into Khartoum
Day 11 into Khartoum.
We got cracking quite early today after a decent night’s sleep. Well reasonably good. I didn’t battle, as I seldom do, but the youngsters complained of miggies etc. Mark hasn’t been to the army and Justin operated a desk in some air conditioned office at Natal Command so they found their first night at the ‘Nile Hilton’ a bit rough.
We stopped for lunch at Dongola, a small town on the Nile but an important ferry crossing and had a good meal- goat and bread. It tasted better than it sounds. There was the option to cross and ride down the other bank but we had been on such a good road that we didn’t. In reality a mistake. We did however get to Karima, where we saw some good pyramids, but had a detour to get back to the Khartoum road. At this point we had to make a decision on reaching Khartoum. There’s a 300km desert run in from the north. The temperatures were 44 degrees and we were getting tired. It was too early to stop and basically no options of camp sites so we pushed on. Any way we then broke rule no 1, for the second time, and arrived in Khartoum in the dark. This place is chaotic. To add to that Mark had the only working gps. What with the heat, traffic, mark leading etc we arrived at a hotel late and buggered.
Now this isn’t the 4 seasons, not even close. It does have basic services so we cleaned up and headed out for supper. Schwarmas and fresh orange juice did the trick.
I’ve woken this morning and it’s still as hot as last night. The proprietor last night says next month is even hotter. Scary!
I lost my glasses in a little ‘get off ‘yesterday and these spares aren’t too hot so excuse me if I can’t see.
I think we’re going to take it easy here today and then head for Ethiopia. It’s much higher and apparently cooler. After Egypt and then this place we’re looking for some respite. We’re ahead of schedule.
Jim.
Wednesday 10th June
Wednesday 10th June
We had a good evening last night spending time with the over landers. Supper in the village was good. It was quite festive and we had a reasonable meal bur no liquor, this is a very dry state.
When we got back to the hotel it was so hot inside we moved our beds to the back yard. Despite a donkey braying, dogs barking and some woman projectile vomiting extremely close to us we did get some sleep.
We rose early and after tea on the pavement outside of the hotel I had a quick haircut while the young boys were looking to have their legs waxed and get a facial. I’m now being referred to as the convict my hair’s so short. For $2 it’s fine. Hair 4U needs to take note of the prices.
Today had been another slow day. We finally got clear of customs by midday and packed up and left immediately. The road was straight into the desert and I’ve never seen a more desolate wasteland. Getting stuck out here could be extremely dangerous. It’s been black volcanic rock with not one living thing, no trees, grass, animals or people. Temperatures stayed close to 42 the whole way.
We have finally reached rock bottom. It’s been a long downhill slide from the 4 Seasons but tonight we’re on the sand, not even tents! It’s too hot to bother erecting them. We’re on the bank of the Nile outside Abri about 240 km from Wadi. We stopped at a reasonable hour needing time to set up, have a swim and to get out of the heat.
Jim
We had a good evening last night spending time with the over landers. Supper in the village was good. It was quite festive and we had a reasonable meal bur no liquor, this is a very dry state.
When we got back to the hotel it was so hot inside we moved our beds to the back yard. Despite a donkey braying, dogs barking and some woman projectile vomiting extremely close to us we did get some sleep.
We rose early and after tea on the pavement outside of the hotel I had a quick haircut while the young boys were looking to have their legs waxed and get a facial. I’m now being referred to as the convict my hair’s so short. For $2 it’s fine. Hair 4U needs to take note of the prices.
Today had been another slow day. We finally got clear of customs by midday and packed up and left immediately. The road was straight into the desert and I’ve never seen a more desolate wasteland. Getting stuck out here could be extremely dangerous. It’s been black volcanic rock with not one living thing, no trees, grass, animals or people. Temperatures stayed close to 42 the whole way.
We have finally reached rock bottom. It’s been a long downhill slide from the 4 Seasons but tonight we’re on the sand, not even tents! It’s too hot to bother erecting them. We’re on the bank of the Nile outside Abri about 240 km from Wadi. We stopped at a reasonable hour needing time to set up, have a swim and to get out of the heat.
Jim
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
9 June arrival in Wadi
Day 9 arrival in Wadi Halfa.
We arrived in Wadi at about 10:30 and it then took all of 2 hours to get passport and customs finished. Most of the work was done on the boat with every document filled in by hand and in duplicate, very slowly. Anyway we’re now in our hotel, had some lunch and waiting for the bikes to arrive on a separate barge, maybe this afternoon or tomorrow morning. Apparently there’s a wedding here this evening, to which we’re all invited, and the barge skipper wants to attend so maybe he’ll pull his thumb out. Regardless we\re spending the night here. We'll leave very early and get some distance covered befoe the heat gets oppressive.
The journey was quite interesting and perhaps not as bad as we thought. The cabins were air conditioned, the food poor and the toilets terrible. We were woken at 04:30 by the mullah calling all to prayers on deck.
Passing past Abu Simbel we pulled in quite close and were able to see the temples they relocated from the waters of the dam during construction. Very impressive! It's only 40km by road from Abu to wadi but it isn't open to traffic. It would be the best way to get here.
Wadi is a dusty little hole, not unlike some rural towns in Lesotho or Transkei. Our hotel has no running water or flush toilets. Perhaps it's better our wives aren't riding pillion!
To have reached Wadi is a bit of a milestone. The hassles of Cairo on both ends and the stress of getting to the ferry wore us out. From here on we can start to cruise. Everybody says how friendly the Sudanese are and we've found it like that. They smile all the time and want to shake your hand. A stark contrast for the Egytptians and will happily rip you off.
So tomorrow we head off following the Nile and from here on it's camping!
Day 8 Aswan to Wadi
Day 8 Monday 8 June
I managed to get the younsters out of bed early enough to see some of the sights of Aswan, we were feeling a bit guilty that we were breezing through without stopping to look. We looked at the ‘unfinished Obelisk’ quite a sight, 45 meter columns of granite cut square on 3 sides and then abandoned because of a flaw.
After breakfast we set off for the Port where we followed a tedious process of customs clearance, loaded the bikes onto a barge which will follow the ferry arriving about 24 hours later and then boarding ourselves. We’re now on the boat which is quite something. Licensed for 270people there will be 570, most of whom will spend the trip on the deck. Fortunately we’ve got air-conditioned cabins.
There are 5 overland groups with us so lots of talking. They are doing basically the same as us just with more time. We'll be in Cape Town first the longest trip will take about another 12 months. There's a French family with a 15 year old girl who are taking them selves around the world in a fantastically set up lorry. She's to be home schooled but what an experience.
I managed to get the younsters out of bed early enough to see some of the sights of Aswan, we were feeling a bit guilty that we were breezing through without stopping to look. We looked at the ‘unfinished Obelisk’ quite a sight, 45 meter columns of granite cut square on 3 sides and then abandoned because of a flaw.
After breakfast we set off for the Port where we followed a tedious process of customs clearance, loaded the bikes onto a barge which will follow the ferry arriving about 24 hours later and then boarding ourselves. We’re now on the boat which is quite something. Licensed for 270people there will be 570, most of whom will spend the trip on the deck. Fortunately we’ve got air-conditioned cabins.
There are 5 overland groups with us so lots of talking. They are doing basically the same as us just with more time. We'll be in Cape Town first the longest trip will take about another 12 months. There's a French family with a 15 year old girl who are taking them selves around the world in a fantastically set up lorry. She's to be home schooled but what an experience.
Day 7 in Aswan
June 7 in Aswan.
This evening we took ourselves out on a boat for booze cruise. The day had been oppressively hot and by 7 it had cooled enough to get out. We spent a really relaxed time on a small boat cruising around the botanic gardens and then drifting down the river drinking beer with the operator and a local camel driver, Sadat. They both spoke good English and were good company. I’m not sure that we didn’t exchange our wives for his camel! Things got a bit hazy on account of the Hashish he was smoking. It could have been an old camel for a young wife or visa versa.
We haven't had any time to view the sights so decided that an earlt night was requird so we could get out early.
This evening we took ourselves out on a boat for booze cruise. The day had been oppressively hot and by 7 it had cooled enough to get out. We spent a really relaxed time on a small boat cruising around the botanic gardens and then drifting down the river drinking beer with the operator and a local camel driver, Sadat. They both spoke good English and were good company. I’m not sure that we didn’t exchange our wives for his camel! Things got a bit hazy on account of the Hashish he was smoking. It could have been an old camel for a young wife or visa versa.
We haven't had any time to view the sights so decided that an earlt night was requird so we could get out early.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Sunday 7 June
I woke up early to find the room empty. M and J were complaining about the aircon not working last night and they must have changed rooms or bolted because of my snoring. M's a fine one to talk.
Dealing with these arabs is something else. Everything is a negotiation and we've been had properly a few times. I'm sure it's the same as India. The impression you get is this nation smokes, goes to mosque twice a day and does bugger all else!
Today we have to get the bikes de-registered, quite a long process, and then tomorrow we get to the ferry about 16km away and load up. This takes the whole day. We booked airconditioned cabins, which the Dutch couple didn't. They were hoping we wouldn't arrive.
Loading pictures is proving a hassle. Our note pad is not charging easily and we don't have wireless comms of our own so it looks like internet cafes the whole way. I'll move pictures to Picasa and hopefully you can find them there.
Later. Jim.
Ps We'ree through with de-registering the bikes, itr took about 3 hours. Quite unbelievable admin. Anyway now there's some time to relax. It's so hot outside that you can't move.
From here it up to the port tomorrow. Be there at 10 clear customs, passports and load up. A process that will require about 6 hours! It might be a while before we see the next internet cafe.
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