Day 44 to Chipata

Portuguese Puncture boy ( no 6)

Wake up to this

Day 44 to Chipata

We woke up on the lake at Chinteche to a beautiful morning. The place was deserted. It’s rated one of the most beautiful camps in Malawi and we’ve no doubt it is.
The ride it self was quite long and fairly boring. We rode about 500 km in the day and the only break being for the Portuguese Puncture Boy who had another flat. He’s catching up to me which is some relief.10:6.
Thank goodness for GPS’s. We found the best pizza restaurant in Lilongwe. We tried to pretend to the proprietor that we were the Long Way down team, unsuccesfully, but it got us a cuppachino freebie.
We’ve spent the night at Mama Rula’s across the border at Chipata which was very pleasant. The others are taking a b it of time to get ready so until they are I’ll blog.
Today will be a big 600km push to Lusaka or maybe a detour into Zim and down to Kariba. We’re not sure if the Zim leg can work but it will give us some dirt and relief from the tar.


Breakfast is calling. Till later Jim.

Day 43 The Sanctuary, somewhere near Chitumba, Malawi.

Hello everyone, Mike here. After months of day dreaming in the UCT library, I’ve finally arrived and joined the Portuguese petrol pump attendant and the old bullet. I can’t believe my luck.

I did write a post a day or two ago but it didn’t quite fit in with my dad’s uploading procedure, and missed the boat, which left from an absolute shit hole of an internet cafe yesterday in Mbeya, Tanzania.

It’s been a fantastic few days. I was welcomed into Dar by a friendly customs official (read sarcasm) who wouldn’t let me bring in the new rear tyre for the bike. My dad luckily saw this happening, called the guy over, and told him to get knotted. The last 5 weeks has obviously taught the guys a thing or two about negotiating in Africa.

We’ve ridden mostly on tar roads since Dar. The ride through the game reserve on the first day (Dar to Mikumi) has provided a definite highlight of the trip so far. We were lucky enough to see a herd of about 20 elephant very close to the road. The guys hadn’t seen wild game yet, so I guess my timing was pretty decent. Thank you Justin. Whilst we were still in the reserve Mark gave a huge giraffe the fright of its life as he came round a bend. He was as surprised, hit the anchors, and almost caused my dad to ride into him!

Since then we have spent a couple days meandering across Tanzania and down to Malawi. Yesterday was a full day of riding, travelling about 500 km and dealing with the Tanzania-Malawi border post. The Sanctuary where we are currently relaxing has exceeded all expectations. We got in last evening a bit thirsty and started drinking Carlsberg Elephants. We couldn’t quite work out why we were getting so inebriated. Mark couldn’t feel his legs after four. We finally read the label and discovered they were 7.2 %, too late.

So it’s been a slow start this morning. We plan on leaving here at about 2 pm and heading 230 km down the lake. The morning has been spent on the beach, watching what floats past: fisherman on dug out canoes, and busty Norwegian girls, perving over the fisherman. We received a time bonus of 1 hour when entering Malawi, back to SA time, so we having an extra long lunch.

Now it’s Jim.

Finally you can have a break form my ramblings and get a fresh view on what’s happening. Very nice to have Mike along for a new dimension.

This battery is going flat so till later.

Jim.

The sanctuary , our home.

Down to the lake

Just for Rod. Any time is Kili time

Day 42 Iringa to The Santuary

Well we have arrived at a real sanctuary down on Lake Malawi.

It was a long day leaving Iringa early and pushing for 500kms down to Malawi.

The ride and the road were both good. Certainly the south of Tanzania is much more scenic than the north. Some of the views dropping down to the border were special going through tea estates and woodland.

Mike and I got collared by the long arm of the law. Mike doing 67 in a 30 zone and me 37. Both fines were 20000 shillings and we only had 500 so some long negotiating took place to try use dollars. What with a stretched exchange rate, in our favour, they declined. When we offered to go 20km up the road to an ATM, I think they realised we wouldn’t come back, they relented and let us off.

This little resort is very beautiful. It’s right on the water. We might well hang around for a bit.

Later Jim.

Day 40 Dar to Mikumi

Day 40 Dar to Mikumi

We regrouped at Dave Legg’s workshop, Mark only coming in from Zanzibar in the morning. He was a bit late as he and the taxi driver got lost. He didn’t realize there were 2 Bagamoyo roads! It didn’t matter as I had a flat.
We spent a bit if time re-grouping, changing back tyres, before leaving Dar.
Initially the ride was typical big African city. Too much traffic, not enough road etc etc. For Mike it was a baptism of fire.
The first 100km was retracing out steps and then we got into much nicer country side. The main road goes through Mikumi game reserve. Quite unexpectedly we had a wonderful afternoon ride and got to see elephant, giraffe, warthog, impala etc from our bikes.
We considered staying in the park but bikes aren’t allowed so we headed on to Mikumi town where we’ve spent the night.
Today we’re heading to Iringa where Mike’s mates the Gauie twins live. Not sure if we’ll stay over as it’s only 200km away.

Later. Jim.

Day 39 out of Zanzibar

Day 39

The break in Zanzibar has been good. Perhaps the weather could have been better but it was wonderful to have the families with us. I think the 5 week break was very long for them. At least form here it should only be 2.
We’re well carbo loaded for the last 2 weeks. Certainly we’re a bit chunkier than we were on arrival. After surviving some very long days on a single meal and getting a bit hungry we’ve had a full go at the buffet!
I’m now on my way to meet Mike in Dar and Mark is coming through in the morning. There’s some admin to do on the bikes like changing back tyres and we hope to be away by lunch time.
The next part of the trip is going to be different. Slowly getting onto home turf will add a new dimension. The next major break will probably be Vic Falls on either Saturday 18 or Sunday 19 for some adventure sports and then we plan to be at the Waterfront at midday on Saturday 25th. I’m unsure of the exact distance but it’s probably about 4500km.

Till later. Jim

days 31,32 and 33

On Zanzibar

Mark looking civilised

Coming down from Loshoto

Yes, puncture no. 9! Only 15 minutes to change

Leaving Arusha

Days 31,32 and 33

We’ve now arrived in Dar. The ride down was really uneventful and quite boring.
We didn’t get to see Kilimanjaro because of the haze and cloud. Quite disappointing as the GPS had it quite close to the road. The road itself was narrow, rutted and difficulty to ride. The buses go like hell and you have to be alert.
We elected to go up to Loshoto for the night. We didn’t have many options and Dar was too far to push through to. It’s was solid 35km climb out of the valley, with some great views.
We’ve now left the bikes at Dave Legg’s workshop and are on the ferry on the way over to Zanzibar. The Portuguese navigator wanted to fly and I wanted to sail by dhow so we compromised and chose the ferry. Mark has his teeth gritted and he’s whining about getting sea sick. Justin left for JHB early this morning so Mark’s going to have toughen up without him. I’m planning on using the tents a bit more!
We’re both looking forward to a few days off as we’re both tired. It’s going to be wonderful to have Gilly, Wendy and the respective families here. Unfortunately Mike only gets here next Friday so won’t get to the island but he’s looking forward to the ride down.
The ride has changed quite considerably since Nairobi. Tanzania has been quite boring so far but should improve to the east. There are some game areas to look forward to.
You won't hear from me for a week.

Jim

days 29 and 30 Nairobi and to Arusha

Days 29 and 30 Nairobi and down to Arusha

Nairobi has a great feel to it. It’s a bit like Johannesburg in April. Clear and mild. We slacked out most of the day. Justin had to collect some cash and Mark needed to see the doctor. He’s had Eutecaria (sp?) and been scratching himself to pieces. This is the fourth consultation and each tells him the same as Dr Steve. Finally he found some Calamine lotion and is cheering up.
We needed to get our passports stamped and we tried to get our carnets done. In the end there was such confusion about the Carnets that we threw in the towel and used the JJ stamp. It worked a charm.
Jungle Junction was a good place to stop. By Monday night there was quite a crowd there and the conversation was good; An interesting old German guy, probably late 60’s, who travels the world for 6 months each year on his 1200 and then goes back to his 28 year girlfriend in Rio, some South Africans , a French couple, some Aussies who had driven a Citi Golf up Africa and were on their way home to London. They had swopped the car for a free bungie jump in Uganda!
The ride down yesterday was easier than expected. I only had 3.5 punctures! The half was because the Portuguese can't repair a puncture properly, only established after I had finished replacing the tube. The road is under construction so there were a lot of detours.
It appears that we’re ahead in the race to Zanzibar so today we’ll probably head out to see Kilimanjaro and then head down to the coast. Who knows?

Jim.