CAIRO TO CAPE TOWN C2C

The end

2009-07-27T15:52:00.004+03:00

Day 54 again.

We were all blown away by the reception at the Radison. The families and many friends were waiting and it was better than we ever expected.

There is no doubt that it couldn't have been the same to finish in Cairo. We were irritated leaving the city when we started imagine feeling like that at the end?

Thank you to everybody who was there.

This is the end. I now have to do some work.After 8 weeks off when I got to the office I was stopped at reception and had to introduce myself.

I hope you've enjoyed my ramblings. To anybody who ever had the slightest thought of doing it.............................................................

Jim.

Day 54 and home!

2009-07-27T15:27:00.006+03:00

Top of Signal Hill - almost the end

Our first view

We got away from Clan William quite excited for the ride in to Cape Town. There was acertain amount of joking as were ahead of schedule and the dreaded P word was mentioned, in a whisper.

It didn't take long. 10 km out of town, while waiting for Mike to take some photos, I went off the road onto the gravel for a few meters and the impossible happened. Number 21. Quite difficlut to believe.

It was a fantastic day with impossibly blue skies. At 2 degrees it was quite chilly starting but by the time we arrived it was up to about 19. There is no doubt about the Cape's beauty, the country side was stunning and the ride in was amazing. Africa has a lot of very beautiful places and the Cape is one of them.

Being 20 minutes early we shot up to Signal Hill for a view of the city. Unbeatable. Nothing could have presented the Cape in a better light.

We still had to reach the finish line so didn't wait long and then headed off down the hill.

Later. (About 10 minutes.)

Day 51

2009-07-23T17:51:00.001+03:00

Day 51 : Okahandja to Keetmanshoop

More progress towards the south.
We left for an easy ride to Windhoek where Mark had plans to have coffee with a friend. Being only 70 km we were there by about 8:30 and left again at 10:30, because of the supposed boring tar we chose a route out into the west towards Walvis Bay.
The riding was all sand and initially I battled to get going. I found the surface very slippery and with quite a lot of loose gravel made the going quite difficult and slow. We had planned a 450km route but after 75 km I was planning on heading back to the tar.
I was then given a quick lesson and I then managed to get my act together. It’s a very unnerving experience riding at 100km/hr plus on a gravel road with the bike doing it’s own thing underneath you. When loose sand or any thing looks uneven you then open up and go faster. Most of the time you’re standing up. All I can say is I was not thinking about coming off! Remarkably the bike does track by itself.
We have got to Keetmanshoop after 650km and have less than 1000 km to Cape Town.
I’m beginning to crave the idea of finishing. It’s been a long time away form home and whilst easy riding than perhaps I’d expected it’s still a long way. We should have ridden about 13500km which is very close to my original budget. I have to admit that I’d created a small buffer by planning the route through the Sudan over t different pages of my map book. That gave us spare mileage and time which we used in Ethiopia. Without it we’d have been a bit tight for time.
We’ll take it easy for the next 2 days, perhaps be able to watch some stages of the Tour.
We’re still on for 12 at the Radisson.

Later Jim.

Day 50

2009-07-23T17:44:00.002+03:00

Day 50 After our relaxing day fishing and game viewing we had to set about pushing for home. The plan was to get as close to Windhoek as possible.
After an early and quite cold start we turned towards Rundu at the end of the Caprivi where it opens out. Finally the impossible happened and the yellow bike punctured. Despite me leading 10:7 to Mark’s machine the yellow bike remained out of the race, not having had a single flat. As usual it didn’t take too long to change but enthusiasm for quick changes is wilting.
In the late evening I had yet another flat. This prevented us reaching Windhoek and we stopped at a lodge in Okanhandja, just 70 km short. We found a very nice country hotel and had a good supper and bed.
The roads and country side made for quite easy riding and we did 830km, the longest stretch to date. It does seem that Namibia is an enormous place, we seemed to make little progress towards Cape Town.
After countries with too many people Namibia seemed deserted. Incredible wide open spaces with fantastic bush veld. After Grootfontein there were hundreds of Warthog on the verges. The place is clean and it all looks like it works efficiently.

Till tomorrow. Jim

Day 50

Day 48 at mahlangu Lodge

2009-07-21T20:21:00.003+03:00

Day 48 Vic Falls to Mahkangu Lodge

Yesterdays’ ride was another long one.
We got away at a reasonable time and headed 200km down to the border at Katima and the Zambezi River. There’s a bridge there which makes it easier than crossing at Kazungula.
The crossing was quite quick and we then we found some sort of civilization. ATMs that worked etc. It was a quick 100km to the start of the Caprivi Park.and what we had hoped would be elephant country. There are signs along the road warning you of elephants but we rode for miles without finding any. We got so desperate that I had to take a photo of Mike next to a sign. However just before crossing the Okavango River we did find 2, not very close to the road.
The Okavango is the river feeding the Delta. It’s flowing at a good rate but having subsided from the massive floods of earlier this year.
We have been calculating distances and estimating riding time to get us to Cape Town. We’ve still got about 2500km to go. The lure of a day’s tiger fishing has however stopped us at a beautiful camp on the river. We’re going to spend the day here, perhaps with a game drive and booze cruise before pushing quite hard for the last 4 days.

This is Mike: Hello everyone, I’ve finally found the time to punch some insight into this little laptop. My dad usually blog’s while waiting patiently for Mark and I to get ready in the morning. He’s always the first to rise, shake our tents, and pack up before it even gets light, whilst we try catch up on the sleep we lost due to his snoring.

The ‘rest day’ we had in Livingstone 2 days ago was spent swimming for our lives down the Zambezi (very relaxing). Out of the 8 or so rafts (each with 6 rafters) in our group, the three of us were the only ones to opt for the bodyboarding/drown option. The rest of the group really got their moneys worth; getting the pleasure of watching us float down into ‘Judgment Day’ or ‘The Terminator’, along with Marks vulgar commentary. My dad’s helmet looked like it was made out of recycled piss potty, Mark enjoyed telling our fellow rafters this upon arrival and told them they could piss into it at will, whilst my dad’s next to him wearing the helmet.

Yesterday the ride from Livingstone to Bagani (back in Nam) was fairly flat Caprivi bushveld. We had a slight team dilemma after about 200km… Normally Mark and I ride faster than my dad, keep checking the review mirrors, and make sure he’s still in range by waiting every 10 minutes or so. After our lunch stop at 200km, my dad zoomed off on his own mission, as he often does, and thought it would be funny to ride fast so that we wouldn’t catch him so quickly. Us two chasers were messing around with ipods and gave him about 5 minutes. We then rode pretty damn quickly for 30 mins and still didn’t catch him. We then waited on the side of the road. We acknowledge that my dad’s GPS is broken and his phone is dead, maybe he’s lost his marbles and ridden off in the wrong direction, crashed into the Zambezi or something. At his usual pace we would have caught him a few km’s down the road. We then carry on all the way to the next town, 110km from the last stop, to find him sitting under a tree with a smart arse look on his face. We didn’t think it was so funny, anyway, we became friends again.

Jim:

We’ve just got in from a wonderful morning on the river which is a really beautiful part of Africa. Willy our driver kept telling us how September was the month for fishing, so good in fact that the fish sometimes jump into the boat. We did however get 2 really nice fish, Mark also getting wildly excited when hooking a tree and a reed bank.
We were in the company of many hippo, a small croc, and great bird life.
We flattened a few beers while out on the water so the other 2 are now asleep and then we head out for a game drive. I think this very relaxing day has been good for us as the hard work now starts as we head down to CT.

Day 46 and 47 at Vic Falls

2009-07-21T19:51:00.003+03:00

Day 46 and 47

Well what started as a long days ride to Vic Falls remained just that. We got away after breakfast but needed to stop for a front tyre replacement for my bike as I had found an alarmingly deep cut, through the tread, probably the result of a pot hole. We were able to find a replacement and it didn’t take too long to get it fitted.
On leaving the city Mark and Mike ran a speed trap without stopping. I duly got caught for speeding and then the usual explanation of ‘sorry no local currency and can I pay in dollars etc’ ensued. It did the trick and I got let off with a warning. Shortly thereafter I got stopped at a police block for allegedly overtaking on a solid line about 4 km back, which was true. Again I did the dollars, nil cash explanation and it worked for the 3rd time and then we were off. It looked like we had better start obeying the law.
The road down to the fall was very long, 580 km and except for the last 30km which was dirt, because of construction, very boring. Mike was delighted to be on the dirt. He had been complaining of not getting enough.
Mark tried to bargain the Royal Livingstone down to our budget. He thought that getting the rate form $800/night to $300 was enough to justify hammering the budget. Having the pay for 2 I didn’t so he headed for Fawlty Towers, I’m not kidding. It did the trick and we got a reasonable night sleep.
For our day off we had decided to go river rafting. As the river was very full, as it had been on my last trip, and knowing that the ride wouldn’t be too exciting I elected for us to swim the river, with a boogie board and fins. It ended up been very exciting just a little cold. We shot the first 3 rapids in a raft before getting in. At first the other passengers thought we were crazy but by the end were a bit jealous. We haven’t got any photos of our own but purchased a disc so they will follow.
Vic Falls was really busy, full of tourists. Zambia must have destroyed Zim’s tourist market.

Day 45 TO Lusaka

2009-07-16T18:16:00.003+03:00

A long boring road

The view from Luangwa river bridge

Some proper sugar cane

Where the hell are we?

Day 45Day 45 Chipata to Lusaka

A long day.575km in all, long straight roads and not very special.
We had thought of diverting across the Zambezi and into Zimbabwe but that was too much. A lot of variables, unknown roads and it looks like we’re running short of time. We’ve still got 3000km into Cape Town and that translates into quite a few long days. To do more than about 500km is a big ask.
We plan on getting to Vic Falls tomorrow, have a day off on Saturday , spend time going slowly across the top of the swamps and then push through Namibia.

Day 44 to Chipata

2009-07-16T17:49:00.003+03:00

Portuguese Puncture boy ( no 6)

Wake up to this

Day 44 to Chipata

We woke up on the lake at Chinteche to a beautiful morning. The place was deserted. It’s rated one of the most beautiful camps in Malawi and we’ve no doubt it is.
The ride it self was quite long and fairly boring. We rode about 500 km in the day and the only break being for the Portuguese Puncture Boy who had another flat. He’s catching up to me which is some relief.10:6.
Thank goodness for GPS’s. We found the best pizza restaurant in Lilongwe. We tried to pretend to the proprietor that we were the Long Way down team, unsuccesfully, but it got us a cuppachino freebie.
We’ve spent the night at Mama Rula’s across the border at Chipata which was very pleasant. The others are taking a b it of time to get ready so until they are I’ll blog.
Today will be a big 600km push to Lusaka or maybe a detour into Zim and down to Kariba. We’re not sure if the Zim leg can work but it will give us some dirt and relief from the tar.

Breakfast is calling. Till later Jim.

2009-07-14T17:22:00.003+03:00

Day 43 The Sanctuary, somewhere near Chitumba, Malawi.

Hello everyone, Mike here. After months of day dreaming in the UCT library, I’ve finally arrived and joined the Portuguese petrol pump attendant and the old bullet. I can’t believe my luck.

I did write a post a day or two ago but it didn’t quite fit in with my dad’s uploading procedure, and missed the boat, which left from an absolute shit hole of an internet cafe yesterday in Mbeya, Tanzania.

It’s been a fantastic few days. I was welcomed into Dar by a friendly customs official (read sarcasm) who wouldn’t let me bring in the new rear tyre for the bike. My dad luckily saw this happening, called the guy over, and told him to get knotted. The last 5 weeks has obviously taught the guys a thing or two about negotiating in Africa.

We’ve ridden mostly on tar roads since Dar. The ride through the game reserve on the first day (Dar to Mikumi) has provided a definite highlight of the trip so far. We were lucky enough to see a herd of about 20 elephant very close to the road. The guys hadn’t seen wild game yet, so I guess my timing was pretty decent. Thank you Justin. Whilst we were still in the reserve Mark gave a huge giraffe the fright of its life as he came round a bend. He was as surprised, hit the anchors, and almost caused my dad to ride into him!

Since then we have spent a couple days meandering across Tanzania and down to Malawi. Yesterday was a full day of riding, travelling about 500 km and dealing with the Tanzania-Malawi border post. The Sanctuary where we are currently relaxing has exceeded all expectations. We got in last evening a bit thirsty and started drinking Carlsberg Elephants. We couldn’t quite work out why we were getting so inebriated. Mark couldn’t feel his legs after four. We finally read the label and discovered they were 7.2 %, too late.

So it’s been a slow start this morning. We plan on leaving here at about 2 pm and heading 230 km down the lake. The morning has been spent on the beach, watching what floats past: fisherman on dug out canoes, and busty Norwegian girls, perving over the fisherman. We received a time bonus of 1 hour when entering Malawi, back to SA time, so we having an extra long lunch.

Now it’s Jim.

Finally you can have a break form my ramblings and get a fresh view on what’s happening. Very nice to have Mike along for a new dimension.

This battery is going flat so till later.

Jim.

2009-07-14T17:06:00.002+03:00

The sanctuary , our home.

Down to the lake

Just for Rod. Any time is Kili time

Day 42 Iringa to The Santuary

Well we have arrived at a real sanctuary down on Lake Malawi.

It was a long day leaving Iringa early and pushing for 500kms down to Malawi.

The ride and the road were both good. Certainly the south of Tanzania is much more scenic than the north. Some of the views dropping down to the border were special going through tea estates and woodland.

Mike and I got collared by the long arm of the law. Mike doing 67 in a 30 zone and me 37. Both fines were 20000 shillings and we only had 500 so some long negotiating took place to try use dollars. What with a stretched exchange rate, in our favour, they declined. When we offered to go 20km up the road to an ATM, I think they realised we wouldn’t come back, they relented and let us off.

This little resort is very beautiful. It’s right on the water. We might well hang around for a bit.

Later Jim.

Day 40 Dar to Mikumi

2009-07-13T12:48:00.002+03:00

Day 40 Dar to Mikumi

We regrouped at Dave Legg’s workshop, Mark only coming in from Zanzibar in the morning. He was a bit late as he and the taxi driver got lost. He didn’t realize there were 2 Bagamoyo roads! It didn’t matter as I had a flat.
We spent a bit if time re-grouping, changing back tyres, before leaving Dar.
Initially the ride was typical big African city. Too much traffic, not enough road etc etc. For Mike it was a baptism of fire.
The first 100km was retracing out steps and then we got into much nicer country side. The main road goes through Mikumi game reserve. Quite unexpectedly we had a wonderful afternoon ride and got to see elephant, giraffe, warthog, impala etc from our bikes.
We considered staying in the park but bikes aren’t allowed so we headed on to Mikumi town where we’ve spent the night.
Today we’re heading to Iringa where Mike’s mates the Gauie twins live. Not sure if we’ll stay over as it’s only 200km away.

Later. Jim.

Day 39 out of Zanzibar

2009-07-13T12:38:00.003+03:00

Day 39

The break in Zanzibar has been good. Perhaps the weather could have been better but it was wonderful to have the families with us. I think the 5 week break was very long for them. At least form here it should only be 2.
We’re well carbo loaded for the last 2 weeks. Certainly we’re a bit chunkier than we were on arrival. After surviving some very long days on a single meal and getting a bit hungry we’ve had a full go at the buffet!
I’m now on my way to meet Mike in Dar and Mark is coming through in the morning. There’s some admin to do on the bikes like changing back tyres and we hope to be away by lunch time.
The next part of the trip is going to be different. Slowly getting onto home turf will add a new dimension. The next major break will probably be Vic Falls on either Saturday 18 or Sunday 19 for some adventure sports and then we plan to be at the Waterfront at midday on Saturday 25th. I’m unsure of the exact distance but it’s probably about 4500km.

Till later. Jim

days 31,32 and 33

2009-07-04T10:52:00.002+03:00

On Zanzibar

Mark looking civilised

Coming down from Loshoto

Yes, puncture no. 9! Only 15 minutes to change

Leaving Arusha

Days 31,32 and 33

We’ve now arrived in Dar. The ride down was really uneventful and quite boring.
We didn’t get to see Kilimanjaro because of the haze and cloud. Quite disappointing as the GPS had it quite close to the road. The road itself was narrow, rutted and difficulty to ride. The buses go like hell and you have to be alert.
We elected to go up to Loshoto for the night. We didn’t have many options and Dar was too far to push through to. It’s was solid 35km climb out of the valley, with some great views.
We’ve now left the bikes at Dave Legg’s workshop and are on the ferry on the way over to Zanzibar. The Portuguese navigator wanted to fly and I wanted to sail by dhow so we compromised and chose the ferry. Mark has his teeth gritted and he’s whining about getting sea sick. Justin left for JHB early this morning so Mark’s going to have toughen up without him. I’m planning on using the tents a bit more!
We’re both looking forward to a few days off as we’re both tired. It’s going to be wonderful to have Gilly, Wendy and the respective families here. Unfortunately Mike only gets here next Friday so won’t get to the island but he’s looking forward to the ride down.
The ride has changed quite considerably since Nairobi. Tanzania has been quite boring so far but should improve to the east. There are some game areas to look forward to.
You won't hear from me for a week.

Jim

days 29 and 30 Nairobi and to Arusha

2009-07-01T09:15:00.004+03:00

Days 29 and 30 Nairobi and down to Arusha

Nairobi has a great feel to it. It’s a bit like Johannesburg in April. Clear and mild. We slacked out most of the day. Justin had to collect some cash and Mark needed to see the doctor. He’s had Eutecaria (sp?) and been scratching himself to pieces. This is the fourth consultation and each tells him the same as Dr Steve. Finally he found some Calamine lotion and is cheering up.
We needed to get our passports stamped and we tried to get our carnets done. In the end there was such confusion about the Carnets that we threw in the towel and used the JJ stamp. It worked a charm.
Jungle Junction was a good place to stop. By Monday night there was quite a crowd there and the conversation was good; An interesting old German guy, probably late 60’s, who travels the world for 6 months each year on his 1200 and then goes back to his 28 year girlfriend in Rio, some South Africans , a French couple, some Aussies who had driven a Citi Golf up Africa and were on their way home to London. They had swopped the car for a free bungie jump in Uganda!
The ride down yesterday was easier than expected. I only had 3.5 punctures! The half was because the Portuguese can't repair a puncture properly, only established after I had finished replacing the tube. The road is under construction so there were a lot of detours.
It appears that we’re ahead in the race to Zanzibar so today we’ll probably head out to see Kilimanjaro and then head down to the coast. Who knows?

Jim.

Nairobi

2009-06-29T07:29:00.001+03:00

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Day 27 and 28 Lodwar to Nairobi

2009-06-29T07:23:00.002+03:00

Day 27 and 28.

Well we had a nice leisurely start to Saturday in Lodwar. Used the time to regroup, fix punctures and settle in for the easy ride up to Nairobi, only 550km, good road. We even started discussing breaking the journey to enjoy the country side.
Don’t rush this is Africa.
We left Lodwar and the road lasted all of 500m then disappeared. Basically it had been worn away. There was about 5-10% tar left, incredible pot holes in between and a rut up to 1 metre deep work where the trucks run. I don’t think any maintenance has been done for 20 years. We went really slowly. It was difficult riding and we didn’t want to break the bikes. The locals gave very varied reports of how far it was. Numbers varied from 40 to 140 km. After riding for about 7 hours and covering about 210km I flatted. It was nearly dark and some villagers directed us to the local police camp where we found some reasonable grass to set up on. Also there was a stream nearby for washing in. Supper was in the village where we ate the toughest chicken ever cooked in Africa! There was more bone than meat and at tough as cat tyre. We were so buggered by that stage we ate it and went to bed.
Well Sunday dawned and we had budgeted for another 140km bad road before some improvement but miraculously we were onto reasonable tar almost immediately. The next section was very pleasant. We has started in Lodwar in semi desert, very dry and hot, but up in the highlands it was green, lush and looked very fertile. I can understand how the Brits fell in love with this place.
At Eldora the road joins up with that the road that feeds Uganda and then the proverbial hit the fan. It would appear that Uganda is fed by road, this one. Go out and kiss the nearest taxi driver and tell him he’s a saint. These bastards up here are 100 times worse. The last 200 km in to Nairobi was very frightening. There was no question of taking these trucks and taxis on. Survival was the name of the game; there was no room for error.
Anyway were now at the Jungle Junction, it is overland stop over. It’s been ideal. Clean, good beds and lots of space. Almost home from home. Last night we headed out for supper and then collapsed. Today we’ve got to service the bikes and repair some broken welds on the panniers. My front wheel is also out of shape.
We plan to head out of town tomorrow hopefully by some lesser used back roads, certainly not via Mombasa which had been on our original route.

Jim.

2009-06-28T21:04:00.001+03:00

Day 26 Omoret to Lodwar

Well today was a huge undertaking.
It all started early with us getting the bikes across the river. This involved stripping the luggage, riding them down a steep bank to the river and then loading them one at a time onto a small rowing boat. This needs a picture tell the story.
The guys then started to row the boat over with a big wind and current Justin, who went first, was washed down stream with zero progress. Any way they then started again with more success. It took about 3 hours t5o get all 3 bikes across.
We then set off into the unknown. The GPS had no known track so we followed local advice and a dirt track. We got to a ropey police outpost and then Kenyan passport control.
Riding was very difficult with some very soft sand. I had the first proper fall in some soft sand and ended with my leg trapped under the pannier, unable to move. I was like that for about 10 minutes till the other was able to help me. It was a bit unnerving. In that heat I wonder what could have happened. There certainly isn’t much passing traffic.
The day was then a succession of punctures, falls in the sand and very tough riding.
We finally cleared the sand after about 150km and reached a tar road for the last 50km into town. We’re now in a small guest house which is quite pleasant, thatched rooms, with water and electricity. Ethiopia was starting to wear us thin.
From here it’s 500 km to Nairobi where we’ll regroup. We desperately need some washing and the bikes need an oil change.
Despite the stresses of the last 2 days we’re very happy to have come this route. At least the bikes are in one piece, which is more than we could have expected from the Isiola route. We’ll miss the views on Mt. Kenya. At this stage we don’t care.

Later. Jim

Day 25 Yebelo to Omaret

2009-06-28T20:57:00.001+03:00

Day 25 Yebelo to Omaret

Well we set off early on our alternative route to the Moyale to Isiola section. The road was surprisingly good with some spectacular scenery. It was probably the best days riding we’ve had on the trip.
Punctures were the order of the day. Mark now leads 3:2 and Justin has escaped any so far.
We arrived at the Omo River and to our surprise there was a customs post. Our custo9mks document had Moyale listed as the departure poi8nt which then caused chaos with the idiot officer. He then phoned Addis, Mark begged, Justin offered a bribe and the result is now holed up for the night and will only get cleared tomorrow at 8.
We’re camped on the banks of the river which is about 400m wider. We’re going to have to manhandle the bikes into a small boat. The bank is quite high so it could be interesting.
We’re now off to supper in the village- it could be interesting. Hopefully the beers are cold.
Later.

Day 21 kembolche to Addis

2009-06-28T20:37:00.001+03:00

Day 21 Kembolche to Addis

Well after yesterday’s grump we all cheered up a bit and got cracking quite early. We weren’t sorry to leave Kembolche, it really is a hole.
The road south was quite good and we only had 380km to Addis so we didn’t have to rush. The Chinese are building a lot of new roads and when they’re finished travelling will be very easy. Lunch was in a small town after about 200km and finally our phones started to work.
Shortly after lunch, on a rough stretch, I punctured. The change was quite quick but some SOB pinched my dark glasses. Apparently I got close to being arrested for threatened violence. It didn’t work; I still didn’t get them back.
We’re now in Addis in Wim’s Holland House, a backpacker/over Lander establishment with some a reputation for beer and ‘Bitter Ballen’, a traditional Dutch food. Hell after hearing about them 5000km ago in Cairo we finally sampled them. very good. Helped down with lots of beer! It wasn’t long and everybody was in fine form again.

Tuesday:

We hit the town last night. We’d heard that there were 5 over landers with bikes staying at the Sheraton and we discovered it was the 3Boysonbikes team. They had taken massive strain on the Isiola to Moyale stretch, 3 broken shock absorbers, a bad crash etc.
They’re now waiting for the spares to arrive and 1 one of their team to catch up who couldn’t get into Ethiopia without a passport.
M and J were ready to wreck the town and we were with a retired Shell employee, who has an Ethiopian wife and spends time here and in Scotland, and he took us to some night spot. Anyway we didn’t last too long before retiring.
We’ve now ridden 4900 km and on checking my itinerary I see we’re only a day behind schedule.
The next decision we must take is the route out of Ethiopia. The usual way is Isiola to Moyale, a 500km hell run that breaks equipment and people. You normally budget 3 days but even then it’s extremely tough. There is another route, which we had considered, via a track which detours down via Lake Turkana into Kenya, also about 500km but equally tough and no border crossing point so the potential for some hassles with passports and carnets. Yesterday we found 2 other routes one of which looks very appealing via the Olmo valley, across the river feeding lake Turkana by canoe and then onto a new road, apparently under construction, on the west bank and down to Nairobi. It might be longer but quite frankly anything is better than Moyale road.
We’ve decided to take today off to regroup so we’ll head out of here tomorrow.

Later, Jim.

Day 20 lalibele to Kembolche

2009-06-23T10:00:00.001+03:00

Day 20 at Lalibele and to Kembolche.

We had a fantastic day at Lalibele and it exceeded our wildest dreams.
We visited all 11 churches that are hewn out of solid rock; some are 20m deep and date back to 1100 ad. They are quite remarkable when one considers that they were all built in 23 years and show the most remarkable detail. Even the pictures don’t adequately reflect the vast scale of what was created.
We departed at midday and arrives Kembolche at 7 as it was getting dark. We had 40km of dirt and then onto a new black top road the Chinese are building. After yesterday’s slog it made for much easier riding.
We are now out of sight seeing mode and now need to get out of Ethiopia. We should get to Addis tomorrow and then 2 days later the border.
Justin had his phone pinched yesterday and his wallet today. Not sure how this happened but he’s we’re all a bit bleak and feeling a bit shattered. A bit of a mystery as to how and when it happened. Also this hotel is a dump with no electricity, fortunately a generator, and no running water.
There are no electronic banking facilities in Ethiopia so we’re a bit stressed about the cash situation down to Nairobi. It should be alright provided nothing more goes wrong.
My bike is still overheating, but intermittently, and also a worry.
We’re all bushed so I’ll do more in the morning before we leave.

Jim.

Day 19 Mekele to Lalibele

2009-06-23T09:58:00.004+03:00

Day 19 Mekele to Lalibele

We managed to get going at a reasonable time today and headed out of town on the tar. Unfortunately Bartholomew Dias, the Portuguese navigator made a balls up with his GPS and took us in the wrong direction! His ancestor found Africa with a compass and he couldn't get us to Maychew. So a quick back track was called for and we set of towards Lalibele.
The initial 120 km was good going on tar which included some fantastic passes with switch backs, really high and very little traffic. After that we turned onto the dirt. The map measured 40km, we estimated it at 70 and in fact it was 171! Today was quite the hardest day we’ve had. The road was treacherously slippery with some very steep grades. The best news we’ve had all day is that we don’t have to backtrack as expected and only have 64km dirt before we join the tar.
After 40km I had another overheating problem. I don’t know the reason but it’s getting a bit worrying. At one stage I had serious reservations about coming so far away form civilisation. Anyway we filled and bled the system and it all now looks ok.
We’ve in Lalibele, which has 11 churches hewn out of rock. They are reputed to be the highlight of any visit to Ethiopia. We hope so after the effort to get here.
It seems that the population of Ethiopia all walk in the road. That includes donkeys, sheep etc. We’ve had some very near misses. It becomes really tedious, we’re all hooting like the locals and nobody worries. Today was worse than normal; as all the villagers go to market in the nearest town, the quantity of people out was unbelievable.
We’re now off to look for a dstv dish to watch the rugby. We’ve been totally out of touch and don’t even know the teams.
Later.
Well we got to watch the game. It was a delayed broadcast, in a shack behind a house, with a generator going, which we had to pay for. To start off they had to tune the dish which involved much shouting down a human chain as the dish was about 30m away from the set. It was all very amusing. The atmosphere at the ground looked fantastic.
It’s now early Sunday morning and we’re off to church, that should bring a cheer from some readers back home!

Later Jim.

Day 18

2009-06-23T09:57:00.003+03:00

Day 18 Around Aksum and to Mekele.

We had a slow start and then headed out to the underground tombs and obelisks. It all dates back to 200AD and some of it only very recently discovered. Again like the pyramids in Cairo these great chunk of granite, some 23 m tall, were brought in and erected.
The ride to Mekele passed quite close to an ancient hilltop monastry called Abre Dom so we stopped off to have a look. It was easy to find but not so easy to get in. The door is 25m up a vertical cliff face. We had to climb up with the aid of a home made rope and a safety harness made of animal hide. At the top was an ancient old man who was doing the pulling. It was easily the most scary part of the trip to date. Also they way out was the same as the way in.
We’re now in Mekele and hopefully head to Lalibele tomorrow. It’s our last stop off before Addis but unfortunately 175km off the main road. It should be worth the effort to get there.

Still have difficulties with internet connections but I am trying.
Jim

Day 18

2009-06-23T09:57:00.001+03:00

Day 17

2009-06-23T09:56:00.001+03:00

Day 17 Simian Park to Axum,

Well I woke up on my birthday missing my family like crazy. It felt very strange to be on the other side of the world and not even able to phone. I wasn’t offered breakfast in bed by these two jackasses, they don’t even like waking up!
It was a beautiful sight from the top of the mountains. Unfortunately a bit hazy so the pictures don’t do it justice.
We left to return to Debark to collect the balance of our luggage and to deposit our guard. Justin had him pillion but the guy wasn’t scared, apparently he sang the whole way and buried his rifle into J’s kidneys. We saw some ‘Bleeding heart’ or galatis Baboon on the way down.
We had thought the 250km form Debark to Axum would be a breeze. Well a big mistake. We dropped off an enormous plateau into a series of unbelievable valleys and mountain passes, all gravel and very slippery. I estimate we dropped 2500m in 50km. That’s like 1.5 x JHB to Durban before Heidelberg. The views were unbelievable but it took a lot of riding. After lunch my bike started to overheat, going down hill. We stopped to let it cool, checked the water levels, and started again but without luck. So we were on the sat phone to Eric at Umhlanga again. We stripped the bike, bled the water pump and we were on the way again. We were stopped on a very steep gravel road, not Mark’s idea of paradise for camping the night!
Shortly thereafter I dropped my bike by skidding to avoid a cow but fortunately no damage to me or the cow. I was having an eventful birthday.
We were very keen to get the contaminated fuel out of our bikes so ran them close to empty before filling again. At this stage we found we hadn’t resealed the tanks properly after stripping the fuel pumps. We only noticed leaks a km later by which time Justin had hit a centre island and totalled his luggage system. He didn’t fall but has done a lot of damage and will have to find a welder today.
Mark and I will visit the underground tombs and other heritage sites whilst he gets the damage repaired and then we‘re off to Makele. At least the roads improve a bit form here on. We’re now 1300km form Addis at the very north of the country, about 70km from the border with Eritea. e start heading south again now.
The load shedding here is very disruptive. Because of the lack of rain they can’t run the hydro electric schemes so half the country is turned off at a time. Today is Axum’s turn for power so I might be able to post to the blog and do some phoning.

day 16 and 17

2009-06-23T09:55:00.001+03:00

Day 16 and 17 Bahir Da and back past Gonder and to the Simian Mountains...

We had a day of sight seeing in Bahir Da which involved going out on a boat to see the monasteries, which date back to1320, and include some amazing illustrated manuscripts, the Nile where it flows out of the lake and some Hippos.
We then had to retrace our steps to Gonder, where we refuelled and then pushed on towards the Simian Mountain Park on a gravel road. Close to dark we stopped to discover that Mark had had his wallet nicked at the last fuel stop, including about $300, and all his credit cards. At this stage Justin elected to head off towards the nearest hotel and Mark and I found a camp site next to a kraal. After lots of confused negotiating we bedded down for the night. In the morning we woke to find 4 guys armed with AK 47’s outside our tents. No problem they were just the local watchmen. The whole time we camped we had an audience; the locals just sit and stare. I’m sure they can’t believe what’s going on. When it was time to leave I couldn’t start my bike, it was absolutely dead. I had been having some problems especially when it was cold but it usually settled down and once or twice it cut out on me at speed. After a lot of trying it finally got going and we set off but stopped in the first town to draw some cash. When it was time to go my bike refused to start. Justin had the satellite phone so Mark set off the find him and I started to strip everything. At this stage had an audience of about 25 and one very willing mechanic who had fast fingers and couldn’t resist the urge to help. After many calls to BMW Umhlanga and inter changing parts from Mark’s bike, by the way Justin’s bike had also failed with the same problem, we established that it was either the fuel pump or a blocked filter. Fortunately we were near to a compressor and after blowing everything clear we got things going. 5 Hours later we set off again. We then had to do the same to Justin’s bike but this time it was a whole lot quicker.
We’re now on top of the Simian Mountains in a small park. There’s a hut of sorts here and we might sleep in it or pitch tents. We’re now at about 3750m and it’s getting quite cold. Boy what a change from the Sudan!
Mark was given the job of lifting the compulsory armed guard. It was a really steel road so he did well to get them both here in one piece.
Ethiopia is starting to produce the experiences that we thought this trip would be about. The ride from Cairo to Gonder was mostly on tar roads, quite frankly you could do it in a Citi Golf. In a year it probably will be all tar. We had ridden very big distances and it was all a bit rushed. We’re ahead of schedule on account of some conservative estimates I had made so we’ve now got the time to explore. From here we loop around the top of the country before heading south towards Addis. On the way we’ll stop at Lalibele, the churches hewn out of rock.

day 15

2009-06-23T09:54:00.000+03:00

Day 15 around Gonder and to Bahir Dir

Gonder is an amazing place. In part it’s just another busy little town, with masses of people, and the usual crime and refuse. However it has history going back to 1620 when a dynasty built a group of castles, a church and some baths. The castle sits on top of the hill above the town and has is a world heritage site. The Brits did there best to destroy it during WW 2 when the Italians were in occupation. The church was one of 44; the other 43 were destroyed in an attack by a group from Sudan, and is still used to this day. In fact there was a funeral in progress when we were there. There are beautiful frescoes on the walls and ceilings. The baths are filled each year in January when there is an annual festival.
Justin has been down with a bug so slacked out for the morning.
We left for Bahir Dir about 160km towards Addis, but the wrong direction for us, on Lake Tana which is the source of the Blue Nile. The road was black ytop the whole way with some quite steep passes. There are amazing fingers of rock, quite isolated, in different shapes.
Bahir Dir has many monasteries built on islands which we’ll have a look at tomorrow. Fuel has been a bit of a problem. It seems the whole of Ethiopia is in a power crisis. None of the towns have power during the day so no fuel. We’ve had to buy at black market prices to get here. Also no lights, coffee, washing, water, internet cafes etc etc.

day 14

2009-06-23T09:46:00.002+03:00

Day 14 to Gonder.

Well we had a fun time of leaving our camp. We were camped about 100m off the road but it was incredibly soft and slippery, the rain of last night having wet the top surface properly. Any way they sent me first, thinking that I would hash it and they could rescue me, but it backfired and the opposite happened. It took about an hour to get the 2 bikes clear and onto the road. Our first gym session.
The ride up to Gonder was very different to anything we’ve had so far. There is lots of road construction taking place and about half the road was black top, the remainder good gravel. With some steep passes it gave us some fun riding.
Ethiopia is very different from the Sudan. There are people everywhere and they get quite in your face. Also there were thousands of head of cattle being herded along the ride. Together with donkey carts, people etc you have to be wide awake. Not many cars but a lot of big trucks. Judging from the debris along the road trucks crash regularly.
Temperatures have decreased and we spent most of the day between 25 and 30. It is quite a relief to escape what we had along the Nile.
We’re now in a small pension. Not much of a place but adequate. The water in town has been off for a few days so there has been considerable whining from our 2 intrepid campers. Mark keeps on about the mud on his R1000 Nike shoes from last night. Check pic.
We’ve got plans to go to Lake Tana tomorrow before heading north to the Simian Mountains.

Later. Jim

day 12

2009-06-19T12:06:00.000+03:00

Day 12 in Khartoum

The Hotel Sahara isn’t much to write home about. Whilst the rooms were air conditioned, in a manner of speaking, the hotel was a decaying relic of previous splendour perhaps of 50 years ago. In think we were the only guests. We were so tired it didn’t matter. Mark complained, in fact he screamed, when 2 cockroaches, the size of small Poodles brushed against his leg, He then found then the next morning sitting on is tooth brush. He didn’t know they survive on a diet of sh!t.
We walked around the city starting at the Blue Nile sailing Club which is supposed to be the over Landers preferred camp site but it was deserted. We found Khartoum to be an oppressively hot place with very little attraction. There are signs of previous Colonial grandeur, lots of old building and wide tree lines avenues, but it’s all decaying now. The Blue and White Niles join in the city and divide it into 2 halves. Omdurman is the more vibrant and heavily populated section.
We had some supper at a road side restaurant and got chatting to a Chinese oil driller. He spends 4 months of the year drilling. He didn’t seem to like the place any more than we did.

Caution Caution

2009-06-12T17:32:00.001+03:00

After a slow start Mark has learn't how to use the blog. Don't allow your children access.

jim interupted

2009-06-12T17:28:00.002+03:00

Finally I get to say a word or two - I have been reading Jim's account of the trip thus far - and I must say for a man who was born during the advent of the abacus he is doing a sterling job. He has lost one pair of spectacles and is now operating with a pair of "over the counter glasses" that are missing one lens. It has not taken him long to look like a local with his one eye closed staring blankly at the computer screen. Khartoum is a hot festering toilet - the heat induces pondo feaver the instant you step out of the air con comfort of the hotel room.We are steadying up after a ridiculous day on the bike yesterday which saw us cross half the country in heat that can only be compared to a hairdryer "on highest setting" blowing for hours into your face. No bullshit. Our hotel "The Sahara" is better than camping - I was eaten alive next to the Nile by insects that were so small they could not be seen let alone killed.. Justins imported Mozzie spray seemed to encourage their appetite. Justin has vowed not to let us camp again - making a lot of sense.
The desert and Egypt are behind us and I must say not the sort of place you can spend too much time. I guess summer in the desert is a pretty hard place and the rally suits we ride in might add to safety but they are pretty stifling. Ethiopia is down the drag and offers cold beers (unavailable in Sudan) and a cooler climate which will be most welcome.
The team is in good spirits and the machines are running sweetly. The budget is getting severly dented by Justin and me continuously trying to find nice hotels - Jim is out voted and never seems too upset to find a clean loo and pillow. Why suffer unneccesarily ; we know we are tough so why have to prove it.
Thoughts from North Africa:
Running shoes and yoga charts don't get used . The goat / camel has been tasty. Coke tastes better at 44 degrees. Never take your toilet for granted or wear flip flops to an eastern toilet.
This is Marky Sparky signing off from "ourbucketlist" - Khartoum

Day 11 into Khartoum

2009-06-12T17:18:00.004+03:00

Day 11 into Khartoum.

We got cracking quite early today after a decent night’s sleep. Well reasonably good. I didn’t battle, as I seldom do, but the youngsters complained of miggies etc. Mark hasn’t been to the army and Justin operated a desk in some air conditioned office at Natal Command so they found their first night at the ‘Nile Hilton’ a bit rough.
We stopped for lunch at Dongola, a small town on the Nile but an important ferry crossing and had a good meal- goat and bread. It tasted better than it sounds. There was the option to cross and ride down the other bank but we had been on such a good road that we didn’t. In reality a mistake. We did however get to Karima, where we saw some good pyramids, but had a detour to get back to the Khartoum road. At this point we had to make a decision on reaching Khartoum. There’s a 300km desert run in from the north. The temperatures were 44 degrees and we were getting tired. It was too early to stop and basically no options of camp sites so we pushed on. Any way we then broke rule no 1, for the second time, and arrived in Khartoum in the dark. This place is chaotic. To add to that Mark had the only working gps. What with the heat, traffic, mark leading etc we arrived at a hotel late and buggered.
Now this isn’t the 4 seasons, not even close. It does have basic services so we cleaned up and headed out for supper. Schwarmas and fresh orange juice did the trick.
I’ve woken this morning and it’s still as hot as last night. The proprietor last night says next month is even hotter. Scary!
I lost my glasses in a little ‘get off ‘yesterday and these spares aren’t too hot so excuse me if I can’t see.
I think we’re going to take it easy here today and then head for Ethiopia. It’s much higher and apparently cooler. After Egypt and then this place we’re looking for some respite. We’re ahead of schedule.

Jim.

Wednesday 10th June

2009-06-12T17:11:00.002+03:00

Wednesday 10th June

We had a good evening last night spending time with the over landers. Supper in the village was good. It was quite festive and we had a reasonable meal bur no liquor, this is a very dry state.
When we got back to the hotel it was so hot inside we moved our beds to the back yard. Despite a donkey braying, dogs barking and some woman projectile vomiting extremely close to us we did get some sleep.
We rose early and after tea on the pavement outside of the hotel I had a quick haircut while the young boys were looking to have their legs waxed and get a facial. I’m now being referred to as the convict my hair’s so short. For $2 it’s fine. Hair 4U needs to take note of the prices.
Today had been another slow day. We finally got clear of customs by midday and packed up and left immediately. The road was straight into the desert and I’ve never seen a more desolate wasteland. Getting stuck out here could be extremely dangerous. It’s been black volcanic rock with not one living thing, no trees, grass, animals or people. Temperatures stayed close to 42 the whole way.
We have finally reached rock bottom. It’s been a long downhill slide from the 4 Seasons but tonight we’re on the sand, not even tents! It’s too hot to bother erecting them. We’re on the bank of the Nile outside Abri about 240 km from Wadi. We stopped at a reasonable hour needing time to set up, have a swim and to get out of the heat.

Jim

9 June arrival in Wadi

2009-06-09T16:00:00.002+03:00

Day 9 arrival in Wadi Halfa.

We arrived in Wadi at about 10:30 and it then took all of 2 hours to get passport and customs finished. Most of the work was done on the boat with every document filled in by hand and in duplicate, very slowly. Anyway we’re now in our hotel, had some lunch and waiting for the bikes to arrive on a separate barge, maybe this afternoon or tomorrow morning. Apparently there’s a wedding here this evening, to which we’re all invited, and the barge skipper wants to attend so maybe he’ll pull his thumb out. Regardless we\re spending the night here. We'll leave very early and get some distance covered befoe the heat gets oppressive.
The journey was quite interesting and perhaps not as bad as we thought. The cabins were air conditioned, the food poor and the toilets terrible. We were woken at 04:30 by the mullah calling all to prayers on deck.
Passing past Abu Simbel we pulled in quite close and were able to see the temples they relocated from the waters of the dam during construction. Very impressive! It's only 40km by road from Abu to wadi but it isn't open to traffic. It would be the best way to get here.

Wadi is a dusty little hole, not unlike some rural towns in Lesotho or Transkei. Our hotel has no running water or flush toilets. Perhaps it's better our wives aren't riding pillion!
To have reached Wadi is a bit of a milestone. The hassles of Cairo on both ends and the stress of getting to the ferry wore us out. From here on we can start to cruise. Everybody says how friendly the Sudanese are and we've found it like that. They smile all the time and want to shake your hand. A stark contrast for the Egytptians and will happily rip you off.
So tomorrow we head off following the Nile and from here on it's camping!

Day 8 Aswan to Wadi

2009-06-09T15:54:00.001+03:00

Day 8 Monday 8 June

I managed to get the younsters out of bed early enough to see some of the sights of Aswan, we were feeling a bit guilty that we were breezing through without stopping to look. We looked at the ‘unfinished Obelisk’ quite a sight, 45 meter columns of granite cut square on 3 sides and then abandoned because of a flaw.
After breakfast we set off for the Port where we followed a tedious process of customs clearance, loaded the bikes onto a barge which will follow the ferry arriving about 24 hours later and then boarding ourselves. We’re now on the boat which is quite something. Licensed for 270people there will be 570, most of whom will spend the trip on the deck. Fortunately we’ve got air-conditioned cabins.
There are 5 overland groups with us so lots of talking. They are doing basically the same as us just with more time. We'll be in Cape Town first the longest trip will take about another 12 months. There's a French family with a 15 year old girl who are taking them selves around the world in a fantastically set up lorry. She's to be home schooled but what an experience.

Day 7 in Aswan

2009-06-09T15:50:00.000+03:00

June 7 in Aswan.

This evening we took ourselves out on a boat for booze cruise. The day had been oppressively hot and by 7 it had cooled enough to get out. We spent a really relaxed time on a small boat cruising around the botanic gardens and then drifting down the river drinking beer with the operator and a local camel driver, Sadat. They both spoke good English and were good company. I’m not sure that we didn’t exchange our wives for his camel! Things got a bit hazy on account of the Hashish he was smoking. It could have been an old camel for a young wife or visa versa.
We haven't had any time to view the sights so decided that an earlt night was requird so we could get out early.

Sunday 7 June

2009-06-07T07:55:00.004+03:00

I woke up early to find the room empty. M and J were complaining about the aircon not working last night and they must have changed rooms or bolted because of my snoring. M's a fine one to talk.
Dealing with these arabs is something else. Everything is a negotiation and we've been had properly a few times. I'm sure it's the same as India. The impression you get is this nation smokes, goes to mosque twice a day and does bugger all else!
Today we have to get the bikes de-registered, quite a long process, and then tomorrow we get to the ferry about 16km away and load up. This takes the whole day. We booked airconditioned cabins, which the Dutch couple didn't. They were hoping we wouldn't arrive.
Loading pictures is proving a hassle. Our note pad is not charging easily and we don't have wireless comms of our own so it looks like internet cafes the whole way. I'll move pictures to Picasa and hopefully you can find them there.

Later. Jim.

Ps We'ree through with de-registering the bikes, itr took about 3 hours. Quite unbelievable admin. Anyway now there's some time to relax. It's so hot outside that you can't move.
From here it up to the port tomorrow. Be there at 10 clear customs, passports and load up. A process that will require about 6 hours! It might be a while before we see the next internet cafe.

Saturday 6 June

2009-06-07T07:45:00.003+03:00

After yesterday's tough one we used the morning to regroup. Mark's drinking system pipe was blocked, we purchased soem new tubes, Chinese but maybe they'll work. Mark's one from last night has wripped the valve out and was irreplaceable.
The days ride was only 250km os we didn't have to rush and Mr Salah knew we were running late. The day time temps are scary. Today we started getting into the desert and temps got up to 44.
The Nile is a fantastic river. It's still enormous and the whole area revolves around it.
We got into Aswan in the daylight , for a change, and found a hotel with a pool. There are now other overlanders around and we ended up have supper and some beers with 2 guys going north to England and a Dutch couple doing the same as us. We've now got a much clearer picture of what to expect in the Sudan. For sure these 2 lighties are going to erect tents. They've been doing their best up till now but form here on there are no options. Watch this space. No beers and camping only for the entire Sudan, it's a big place.

Jim.

Friday 5 June

2009-06-07T07:33:00.004+03:00

Benni Suef to Luxor.

Well that was quite a day. The sort that you have at the Epic and wonder what on earth you’re doing it for.
We started quite early; the temperature was a mild 25 and began the trek south. It didn’t take long and we got separated in bad traffic in a town and we then had a shambles before re-uniting. Bit of sense of humour failure and then we all kissed and made up.
The temperature rose steadily and for most of the day was at 40. It’s like riding with the blast from an over door in your face. Mark reckoned more like a hair dryer, show’s his feminine side.
We had planned on reaching Luxor but by 8pm were still short by about 40km. We then proceeded to break rule no. 1 of riding in Africa and pushed onto the dark. You have to understand these locals drive either with park lights or nothing and then flash bright as they approach. Mark developed a puncture and very nearly lost the bike but held it. It was now dark but very luckily there were some street lights but a very small road shoulder. We thought that a canister of foam might be the short cut repair so Justin set off to Luxor about 10km away. Mark phoned his friend Frank to be told we were wasting time so we started to pull the wheel and do it the hard way. Mark was quite good and managed to hold the torch. Shortly after we started a police man came out looking for us. The police track tourist and in some places escorted us and were worried when we failed to arrive. After a long hard job we had it done and rode into town. The first hotel took our fancy and we checked in filthy and buggered at about 10:30. Some food, a shower and lots to drink cheered us all up.
I reckon I drank about 10 litres of liquid during the day. At 8 it was still 39 degrees!
Today I’ve woken, the youngsters are catching up on a beauty sleep, to an unbelievably beautifully sight of the river. This Nile is quite a river.
Today we’ll regroup and then set off for Aswan, about 3 hours. We phoned Mr Salah and he’s expecting us late.

Jim.

Thursday 4 June

2009-06-04T23:27:00.002+03:00

4 June Cairo to Beni Suef.

Well we’re finally on the road. Not without it’s share of hassles we finally got the bikes out at about 1:30. local number plates and all. After assembling the bikes we had to gas up, inflate tyres and pack. This was done on the forecourt of a filthy service station and a huge audience.
The GPS is only roughly accurate, not giving road turns etc so after doing reasonably well we ended in central Cairo traffic and threw in the towel. We hired a taxi driver to direct us onto the road south.
We’ve never actually cleared civilisation. The road follows the river and there is massive small scale agriculture on both sides. Te road is 2 lanes but shared with donkeys, carts, tractors and all other sorts of traffic it’s a bit of a nightmare. We stopped for lunch, at about 5pm, at a small place on the side of the road. After lunch a kid was run over by a motor bike going the wrong way up the 2 lane road. It looked terrible and shook us but he managed to get up. The bike didn’t stop!

We’ve ridden about 180km today. Only 13830 km to go, and have made the town Beni Suef. It’s on the Nile and the setting is magnificent. We all agreed on a hotel and found a reasonable place for about $25.Airconditioned and a hot shower. It’s been quite a slide. The 4 seasons at $500/might, The Zaphir at $170, this at $25. It could be quire rough by the end of this curve.
We’re all very tired and dehydrated. It was 36 C at 5 pm! Despite drinking a large amount you never escape the heat.
It’s a great feeling to be on the road. We’ve spoken to the ferry man and he’s got things organised for us. He’s promised a cabin so lets wait and see. We have to go through the reverse process and de-register the bikes before boarding.
It’s now 11:30 and we’re stuffing out faces with ice-cream. This town is really moving, Lots of people out. Wonderful atmosphere.
Tomorrow’s an early start and lots of km to ride. 6 am is promised but let’s see.

Jim.

Thursday 4 June

2009-06-04T07:19:00.002+03:00

Well perhaps today will be the day.
Had an interesting time with Said last night trying to settle our account.
He arrived during supper and presented the bill, without deducting any amount paid in SA. Then the fun started. After an late meeting at Mr Sadi senior's office and a lot of fast talking, and a bit of Portuguese double deducting accounting, we settled. We were probably still ripped off but we got $330 off the account.
Barak Obama arrives today so the pyramids are closed. Very disappointimg but we'll do some history in Luxor.
Hopefully we'll get out of here by lunchtime, but I've said that before.
Pictures aren't loading easily but I'll get them onto Picasa when I can.

Jim.

day 3 Wednesday 3 June

2009-06-03T20:58:00.001+03:00

Cairo 3 June

Well still no bikes but did lot of work today. It seems you need about 20 signatures to clear the bikes and we haven’t got them all. Today they moved from air cargo to customs and traffic control. They unloaded them by hand from the truck, then made us open the boxes and then scrutinised them. Crazy. When they asked us for the keys, which we didn’t have, we knew we were beaten. (The batteries are disconnected, fuel tanks empty and handle bars removed and they wanted us to start them)

So we came back to town, changed hotels to something more affordable, and settled in.
Mark and I headed out to see the pyramids only to find them closed. After looking at them through the fence and a fast talker offering us a ride into the desert on his horse for a sunset viewing we came home. A long tiring afternoon.
Cairo is a huge, busy dirty place. The traffic is manic, it’s a zoo and heaven knows how we’ll survive the ride out of town. Missing the pyramids was a bit disappointing. Perhaps we’ll go past on the way out or get up early and see them before we start.
Don’t ever complain about SA working hours, government etc. Here they start at 10, finish at 2 and do next to blow all in between.
Lunch today was shwarmas on the road side.

Sorry but pictures aren't working well. Will try later.

Jim

day 1 June 2

2009-06-03T20:55:00.001+03:00

Day 1 2 June 2009-06-02

Following the news of Friday when my passport didn’t arrive I collected the passport at the airport in JHB without my vaccination certificate! MDS Visapak haven’t excelled with this small job. Anyway I was able to get a replacement without new injections as I had a copy. Hopefully that’s the end of the drama. Maybe bad starts make for good finishes!
I arrived in Cairo at 6 am to find Mark and Justin waiting for me. They had made good progress on Sunday and got licenses etc sorted out. We had some time to
kill as customs only opened at 9. I met Mr Said our customs agent who has been doing a great job .
Customs took most of the day. We got to see the bikes, all appear to be intact, but at 14:00 they shut shop for the day so we start again tomorrow at 9. It all appears to be going well and Said thinks we’ll be finished by 13:00 tomorrow. All being well we’re heading south immediately, perhaps a picture at the Pyramids to start.
Don’t complain too much about the government service in SA. We saw about 70 people and very few boxes moved! Nobody was rushing and they don’t believe in a paperless society. Evertything has a form! Also no cameras allowed so you wont get the inside story.
Justin took fright with Mark’s booking at the Cascades Hotel so we’re living it up at the
4 Seasons. Very luxurious overlooking the Nile, the KTM tents won’t be quite the same.
Hopefully tomorrow gets the bikes to us. We’ve heard of storys where bikes take 6 days to clear. I wouldn’t like to attempt this without a Mr Said.
Let’s see what happens.

Jim.

Sunday 31 May

2009-05-31T21:15:00.002+03:00

Surprize, surprize. It's sunday evening and I'm still at home in Ballito.
I received a call at 16:20 friday to tell me my passport and visa were still in the Sudan embassy and wouldn't be out till monday.
To cut a long and very boring story short I blew my top, they said there was nothing they could do and we start tomorrow morning. We suspect the courier company was late and with the Super 14 final is was probably bedlam in Pretoria. No doubt the consol will tell us the true story.
Justin and Mark are in Cairo and have duly set to work. The license plates are sorted but they have to wait for me to start clearing the bikes. Hopefully it's only a day and we'll still be on schedule. We'd always planned on 3 days to clear Cairo because of all the reports of Egyptian buraucracy. At worst we'll have to push hard for Aswan. Saturday we have to start the whole process over again de-registering the bikes!
Here's holding thumbs that I'm on tomorrow's flight.

Jim.

Wednesday 27th

2009-05-27T07:36:00.002+03:00

We depart in 4 days and we still don't have visas for the Sudan! Apparently there is an option to get them in Cairo but that's not our first choice. We'll have to wait patiently for the " letter of authority" to arrive from Khartoum. My patience levels are not up there with the best.

Jim.

Friday 22nd May

2009-05-22T17:27:00.009+03:00

We've had a BIG day.
I started packing the bikes at 8, Mark arrived at 10:30 and we finished at 4:00. Anyway they are all crated, in the truck and now on the way to Justin in Johannesburg.
It was enough work doing this in the factory but the thought of packing up in Egypt is difficult. I'm very happy we're doing the trip this was around.
Putting everything together again could be a challenge. Mark gets "Bolt phobia".Everytime he sees another bolt getting undone he starts to sweat. He's convinced we won't re-assemble everything.

From here it's a test of patience with customs in Cairo. The shipping agent says 2 days to clear, we've allowed 3 and some others groups have had 6 days! We'll let you know. It's a very tedious process. You have to get the bikes re-registered under Egyptian number plates and put up with unbelievable officialdom.

We've got to be at Aswan for the ferry to the Sudan on Saturday 7 June. If we miss that date it's a week wait for the next time.

Monday 18th May. 12 days to go.

2009-05-18T16:50:00.002+03:00

Does anybody want to take my place?
We're down to 12 days to go and it still feels like we aren't making progress.
Ethiopia want another letter from Creighton Products (this will be the 3rd)!
George casually mentions that we probably need police clearance for the bikes at lunch yesterday. That's fine except Justin's log book is in JHB and his bike in Umhlanga and the SAPS don't work after 14:30. The shipping agents admit to forgeting about it!
That aside it's a total scramble.
Reading other blogs make one realise that some of the sections will be really tough. Ethiopia is always wet in the highlands and the rear shocks of most bikes take a hammering on the Moyale to Isiola stretch.. Mark's spare hasn't arrived yet.
Otherwise the carnets have been issued, Justin is collecting the bikes at the weekend and then it should be all systems go. Jim.

13th May. 18 days to go.

2009-05-13T13:22:00.004+03:00

There's chaos around us.

Last minute hassles are distracting us all like requests for extra visa information,insurance, carnets. etc etc.

There's been comment about me not doing much work. Prabably true but at least Themba's here to help with bike crating.

We received some casual advice from Chris, the mechanic at Jungle Junction in Nairobi, that no 800's are making it from Moyale on the Ethiopian border to Isiola. Apparenly it's a hell run.The shocks overheat and pop. The Portuguese thinks he's going to take some extra units and make a small margin on each!

9th May, 21 days to go.

2009-05-10T20:06:00.004+03:00

Mark and I rode up to Kosi Bay this weekend to get some sand riding skills. It was to be our last chance for some riding prior to packing the bikes.

Apart from leaving in the rain early on Saturday we had an uneventful ride up, mostly on tar.

At Mbazwana, near Sordwana, we'd had enough of the tar and diverted on some dirt roads.

The sand was quite managable being slighly wet but was still good practise. We followed the route down to Rock Tail Bay but were denied entrance into the reserve so rode an alternative route through to Manguzi. Here we filled up both tanks and tyres and set off for a local camp site. The ride through the last +- 500m sand to the camp was the worst of the day and Mark made a grand appearance in the camp by lying down (falling off) at the manager's feet.

Despite the offer of a bed we decided that camping was what we needed to practise so we set up on the lawn( with a hot shower near by!).

Mark's catering skills are way better than his mechanical prowess or sense of direction so we ate well, almost certainly better than we will on the trip. He'd raided Wendy's pantry, his brothers Spar and the garage Kwik shop to feed us. Needless to say his skills will be tested with camel and goat.

The view of the camp site is not a KTM advert!

Sunday's ride was a good balance of dirt and tar. No sand apart from the ride out of the camp. I left before Mark and when he didn't arrive I went back to find him " pinned like a dirty great rat " ( his words) under his pannier. This time he's made it 100m from the camp! Fortunately with no damage to the leg, only his reputation, we set off.

All in we rode 900kms and I think we're good to go. From here on it's lots of final details .

Monday 4th May.

2009-05-04T21:29:00.003+03:00

Things are starting to get hectic. We're flying to Cairo on 30th May, which is in 26 days time, and there are still masses of things to do. The list includes visas, carnets, etc etc. I seem to be spending a lot of time doing things apart from work.
Mark and I are now street legal, having passed our riders licenses, but the final documents will probably not be ready before we leave. That leaves our international drivers licenses in doubt.
Simon isn't going to be riding with us so that leaves Mark, Justin and me.
Mark and I are heading to Kosi Bay this weekend to check out our sand riding skills. It's probably a bit late to decide we don't have any!

Jim.

Saturday 7 March

2009-03-09T21:26:00.004+02:00

The ride from Notts. was fairly uneventful.

Half way to Himeville we came across a burning bus. The passengers had escaped through the rear window, without any serious injuries, and the arrival of a fully equipped Land Rover with a fire extinguisher, helped.

Needless to say Mark wasn't much help and suggested we had an early lunch!We were to learn quite quickly that food would be a serious issue on this t

rip.

It's all now started

2009-03-09T20:18:00.001+02:00

After much talk and pre-ride banter the real thing started at Nottingham Road on Saturday 7th March 2009.

The group has been decimated from 6 down to 4 and only 3 were at Nott's.

In disguise are from left Mark J, me (Jim) and Simon.

The plans were to try some real adventure riding in preperation for leaving for Cairo in late May.

There had been a lot of discussion about what bikes we should be riding but in the end we all bought new BMW 800 GS's. At least we would all be on the same bikes!

It had been a difficult start. Simon crashed in the Transkei in December and had 20 stitches in his face.

Jim's bike sheared a front axle coming back from Cape Town, fortunately without injury, and BMW replaced it witha new bike which was ony delivered the day before this ride.

The ride report will follow.

Jim.